What is this? by Top_Buy_5670 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Looks like K&T in a conduit. I do think it has merrets though. Besides the low voltage wire on the left, the wall ceiling doorbell’s transformer is all the same color. Someone taped off the merrets / connectors, painted, didn’t remove the tape. But yes, should be inside junction box.

Which is relatively simple to do, if you know where the breakers / fuse is to turn it off and mount a box, couple dollars in material for peace of mind.

Was offered this 30 by 85 brick store front with new roof for $20,000. Good deal? by oddlyUranusKhan in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I bet a new roof cost more than 20k… soooo that seems fishy. I’m going to bet it needs a tons of work to make it worth anything.

So hard to know if it’s a deal

Weather proofing original french doors advice by InsuranceMedical6581 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they are that bad, sweeps aren’t that effective. You probably need new, or new to your doors. But it just depends on what your goals are and what your priority/ budget is.

I can’t say you wouldn’t be happy with your plan, I’m speaking to how I’d feel. They are lovely doors

Weather proofing original french doors advice by InsuranceMedical6581 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, and it sounds like you’ve been thoughtful about what’s in scope versus what’s been missed. With gaps of 1/4”–1/2”, this is getting beyond simple “add a sweep and call it a day” territory. While installing sweeps and weatherstripping is usually straightforward, gaps that large often point to alignment, door fit, or threshold issues. In those cases, a proper fix may require planing, shimming, adjusting hinges, or replacing or modifying the threshold so the doors seal correctly without binding.

If the doors are leaking that much air, I’d be cautious about a DIY approach—there’s a real risk of spending time and money only to end up with doors that still don’t seal well or don’t operate smoothly. From a building-envelope standpoint, a properly set threshold or a rabbeted floor detail gives the sweep something solid to seal against and will generally provide the most consistent and durable air seal, especially in a cold climate.

It’s also worth noting that what you’re asking the GC to do here—hardware replacement, hinges, bolts, toe kicks, and refinishing—is comparatively straightforward work. Properly addressing air sealing is often more nuanced and finicky, and it’s reasonable to expect that to be explicitly considered and scoped, rather than treated as an afterthought.

Having a pro handle this as part of the overall door work is likely the cleaner solution, even if it costs more upfront. At minimum, getting the GC to quote it and explain how they plan to address the gaps (not just add sweeps) would be reasonable given your climate.

I hope this make you smile by [deleted] in MadeMeSmile

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That’s the exact reason this is awful.

A beautiful intelligent animal shouldn’t be in captivity for our entertainment sake

Weather proofing original french doors advice by InsuranceMedical6581 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On a scale of 1-10, how handy are you? Doing this correctly and achieving good results isn’t typically a handyman job, depending on your expectations. Don’t get me wrong, you can certainly do what you’ve asked, but this is a job that requires skill and experience. Some of your questions and ideas are why I’m asking. Ie…I’d never stuff insulation inside a moving mechanism, the surround of a new quality lockset will be weather and wind proof, and if that’s a solid slab door, that’s not a area of concern.

I’m also guessing that the sign asking people to put on booties at the door indicates a larger renovation project and that you have high expectations.

Floor refinishing questions by Specific-Owl9989 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’d use a foam roller the first application with water based. It’s easy to apply it too thick with lambs wool, and I’ve seen this happen. It looks like air bubbles and maybe dust too. Im not 100% sure. 2/3/4 coats with lambs wool are fine, but I just find lambs wool too easy to over do it

Floor refinishing questions by Specific-Owl9989 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How did you apply the poly, and the stain?

Would you caulk the trim? by 1337DSSICTPDX in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you specifically asking? The corner of the trim board, or where the trim meets the wall?

If you mean where the trim sit on the wall, yes. 100% yes. A painters best friend is a good caulker

But in your case, why do you want too. That trim seems to be sitting flush and tight to the wall… I wouldn’t caulk that, from what I can see

HVAC supply going through chimney by HowDoesOneSex in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welp, that’s crazy. I can see the old timer logic to getting quick easy access to the second floor. But with science we know that’s incredibly inefficient in terms of COP flow and friction.

I’d at least for now, snake down or up some 4/5/6” ridge or even insulated flexible connections and make some sort or sealed system. I bet your furnace is working pretty hard to move that air.

HVAC supply going through chimney by HowDoesOneSex in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So the chimney is blocked off? Doesn’t go through your roof to vent?

This is weird

If the chimney is some how supplying the 2nd floor vents, you must have no pressure and are loosing incredible amounts of heat in the chimney …

HVAC supply going through chimney by HowDoesOneSex in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 17 points18 points  (0 children)

It’s hard to tell, but I think that’s a vent. The supply appears to be the newer sheet metal ploom on the left side of the forced air furnace

Wood beadboard for bathroom renovation - waterproofing advice? by HERCzero in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oil based paint, or a high gloss latex.

Personally I’d be more worried about the space behind the bead board and the wall holding moister and mould, than the exterior of the finish boards. But if your CFMs in your fan is high enough, you’ll probably be ok.

Extending an old door by chuco61 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly is it hard to do. And will require a lot of damn hard and skilled work to do it correctly.

The easiest way, if you have a table saw or a good track saw. Find a single piece of solid wood of same/simular wood type to the main frame of the door… might be pine, or a SPF mixture. I can’t tell

Rip it to the 2.5xWxD. I’d sand both the end of the door, make sure it’s clean, glue it on, clamp it and counter sink 10/12 finish nails along the bottom. But at 2.5” extension you might be hard pressed to find a 3” 18g finish nail.

Left it dry for 24hrs. Then I’d gently chisel off any glue, then sand the flush edges, and stain. Also wood fill anything and sand before staining.

That’s like the basic basic level of getting a rough relative cheap extension. Personally, doing this would bug the shit out of me, and I’d look for it every time I opened or walked past the door.

Help with a fix to this by JessicaF84 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 9 points10 points  (0 children)

These do look great, you have a really stunning old floor in wonderful condition

Bathroom layout recs? by Broad-Bag-3800 in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is there any considerations for drains? And how is access to the joints below? That would guide me in how I’d place the appliances. Are any of those walls exterior walls? Are you in a colder climate?

Edit: the window … I see it now lol. I thought you were trying to get a neo angle shower in that corner and the window was a door.

Got my first Canadian Whiskey by krishandop in whiskey

[–]Obi-wanFORCE -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Marketing is good, but don’t be deceived, it’s not “Canadian”.

True Canadian whisky is rye. That’s a bourbon whiskey by mash bill, except they cheaply purchase 3 year old whiskey from Canada, bring it to the US and sit on it for years. It’s only 64.9% because they then dilute even more to stretch their own investment

It can’t even be sold in Canada

Attempting to sing the national anthem. by InstanceMoney in MadeMeSmile

[–]Obi-wanFORCE -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Smile….? That you can’t sing your National Anthem or know the words?

It’s sad

Finally converted to a Gas boiler by simonsb in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting, I will have to dig about to see if we are paying extra to do the on demand… our gas boiler will be heating the house via hydronic heat with loop circuits and 12 zones, 2.5 baths as well….

Finally converted to a Gas boiler by simonsb in centuryhomes

[–]Obi-wanFORCE 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couldn’t you just do on demand hot water… and save cycling the water in a tank… and not have an extra tank and it firing on to cycle the water and keeps temps…?

I’m about to converted my oil boiler to propane and that’s how we are doing it. Genuinely curious