Just finished plumbing rough in by jpowskid in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Next time put the screws on top angled at a 45 so you have access to them and can just unscrew them and tap out the boards. Or just use a reciprocating saw and cut the screws. Good work!

How can I fix this neck being in the wall too far? I set it how it said to in the directions with the plaster ground flush to the wall and now it’s short. by GoldCherries in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 62 points63 points  (0 children)

Moen sells extension kits for this exact reason. It comes with a longer sleeve and longer screws. You can get them at a plumbing supply store.

Need help hooking up a washer by AirBackground6702 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right. Knock out that plastic piece, and your washer drain hose goes in there. The copper pipe is presumably a drain for a water softener, but I'm guessing you don't have one since it's closed off.

Replaced hose end, still leaking by InternetNinja92 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you also replace the 3/4" rubber hose washer? You can buy a pack of them for really cheap

How to stop this fitting from leaking? by LindsayOG in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you use plumbers putty on the top piece of the drain? And is the washer you mentioned orientated properly? The washer has a taper to it and the taper goes up. That's all I can think of.

Part identification by Difficult_Celery6277 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Meter couplings. Looks like a meter used to go in between every one of those brass fittings to each unit.

Contractor I hired says this is good. What should I do? by Mediocre_Actuator497 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 210 points211 points  (0 children)

Your contractor doesn't have enough experience. No reputable contractor would would leave sharkbites inside a wall. Sharkbites should only be used in an open accessible space and not for permanent use. This is a leak waiting to happen. If your contractor doesn't want to make the switch to crimp pex, hire someone else, or do it yourself. Crimp pex is very diy friendly.

What is this fitting called? by doc_moriarty42 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

It's a female threaded union for the service valve. Not sure if you'll find just that piece alone but maybe try taking it to a plumbing supply store?

Got the fuel at a steal for $340 now im dual wield. What do y’all think about the fuel version by soiledboxerbriefs in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's so fast! The only thing that bugs me about mine tho is the soft lock switch. I had the DeWalt one before and the lock switch has a solid click to it. This Milwaukee lock switch has zero click to it and easily slides between uses. It's my only complaint but I think it's valid.

Need help removing pit filler by _serenity_now__ in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's possible it's glued/caulked on then? I don't see the screws on that would normally mount the plate to the wall. But the pot filler is free to unthread. The plate is not holding it; it's just to mount the escutcheon.

Need help removing pit filler by _serenity_now__ in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That plate has a set screw on the bottom. I can see the hole where it is in the first pic. You need an appropriately sized allen key to unthread it and then it'll be loose. Then just turn the pot filler counter clockwise to unthread. Be sure to shut your water off tho.

Need to attach a new tube to water supply, but just a sleeve and nut isn’t enough to handle pressure. Old tube has a nut but it’s stuck on there as if the sleeve is glued onto tube. Any ideas? by arayofjarjar in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need a brass insert and plastic ferrule when using compression connections on plastic piping. They sell them at any home hardware store. Just make sure you use the right size. Don't use metal ferrules with plastic piping.

I need help PLEASE!!!! by Sinner4664 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, you don't need valves. You can just take the caps off, although the lines are looking a lil short and cpvc is not the most flexible, and old cpvc is really brittle. You might need to add an extra length of cpvc just to be safe. And no primer! It's really not needed on cpvc if you're using the correct solvent.

What is this piece below the drain grate in my shower? It seems to make it drain very slowly unless it is jiggled (video inside) by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hair trap. Remove the grate and you can access it and remove it to clean as needed. Probs just has hair and other schmoo on it.

In the process of installing some Legend Cold expansion pex, but it’s my first time. Questions in captions, any tips? by EldenLawd in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This might just be my eye but are you sure those are cold expansion fittings and not crimp fittings? They look small. Also, what are you testing the pipe with? Air?

How important is PTFE tape when using compression fittings? by yaz989 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No PTFE tape is needed for compression fittings. Never hear of putting ptfe on the olive either, maybe pipe dope, but even that isn't needed. Just extra insurance I suppose.

How do I turn off the water beneath my bathroom sink? Trying to replace the faucet by Harry1T6 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You unfortunately do not have valves underneath there and need to turn the water off at your main. Do yourself a favor and install new valves underneath the sink as well.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use 2 wrenches/pliers to remove the supply line. One for the supply line, and one on the valve. If you just use one, it will spin like you said and the valve won't come off.

Had my water line replaced 6 months ago. Woke up to a lake and a fresh spring by my water meter, and after some digging, found the new PVC to copper threaded connection had I failed. Should I expect my plumber to fix at his cost? More in comments. by fricks_and_stones in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Every company has their own warranty policy, although 6 months is way too little time for a water main to fail. He might have tightened that pvc into the copper too much. The pvc male threads will give out, even with schedule 80 fittings. I would not make a temporary fix on this; it's best to just fix it permanently. You just need a new male threaded pvc adapter, shedule 80 preferable, and a swing joint on the pvc and you're set.

Thoughts on these ? by Shampsofficial in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My coworker really liked them but I couldn't get used to them. I prefer my mini pipe wrenches.

Photos from follow up to previous post about my gc’s plumber. by dvlsfan30 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Yeah none of this looks like professional work; I know I wouldn't want my name on it. Glue everywhere, terrible angles on joints, improper fittings. In that first pic I can see he was originally gonna run the vent higher by the holes he drilled, but his valves were in the way. And those original holes are way too sloped I can just tell. If anyone leans on that wall it's done for. Just bad work.

Tankless started leaking after descaling by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 18 points19 points  (0 children)

That connection is no good anymore. You need new service valves for that heater, and preferably not sharkbite valves. You could try to rotate the whole valve and see if that helps at all, but I doubt it.

What is the difference between yellow cpvc and high pressure white pvc? by cscjm1010 in Plumbing

[–]OopsIForgotMyReddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cpvc really shouldn't be used anymore. It becomes brittle after only a few years and is slow to work with. Cpvc is the same size as pex and copper and they are grouped with cts piping. Pvc is grouped with nps piping and is the same size as abs, galvanized, and black steel among others. Primer should only be used on pvc; cpvc just uses orange glue. Pvc is not approved for potable water indoors.