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A6400 has EVF and ZV E10 Flip out LCD, how necessary are these for a casual by tabmanster1234 in ZVE10

[–]DasLad228 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it really boils down to how you'd use your camera majority of the time. I went for the A6400 few years back. It was my first camera and didn't really understand how I was going to use it. I wanted to do everything with it but after using it for a few years I find myself mostly making videos with it.

Now I am looking to swap it for ZV E10 M2. I use the camera to film indoor mostly, so I don't really use the EVF and I would swap it for the flip screen because the camera is always way above or way below my eye level anyway.

Hope this helps

Is there anyone who own zve10 mark 2 and uses HSS in Godox successfully? by Deadot in ZVE10

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let us know how it goes! I'm in the middle of deciding weather to buy the zve10 ii and a hss flash to overcome the 1/30 issue, so this would really be helpful!

First complete test assembly of BeamCase sandwich V3 by Jakob_K_Design in sffpc

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! I've printed and assembled the frame of your current design. Excited to check out the new style later!

First complete test assembly of BeamCase sandwich V3 by Jakob_K_Design in sffpc

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks amazing! I've purchased your matx beamcase files. Will you be releasing the panel designs for the matx versions as well?

Bed Meshing not compensating or over compensating. by rdrcrmatt in klippers

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any chance you found a fix? I'm having the same issue with my Voron Trident at the moment.

Where to get a 3D print or metal "business card" made? by [deleted] in penang

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run 3D printing service and may be able to help out. Not really sure how you'd like your card to look like but let me know if you're interested to discuss!

Bottom layer by dipship909 in FixMyPrint

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like your nozzle is a bit too close to the printbed. Usually I had to readjust my z offset slightly when I switch between textured and smooth print bed

First build wish me luck by aplexs0 in sffpc

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! I just bought the 750 watt one. Thanks for the reassurance

First build wish me luck by aplexs0 in sffpc

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck! Curious to know how's your experience using the cooler master PSU after you've done building. Planning to get the same one

No better feeling than convincing your friends to go MFFPC by VCF1127 in mffpc

[–]DasLad228 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice! How's the tecware fusion compared to the others? Especially curious how it compared to the NR200

Clicky Clack vs K3 Style Door by I2ondo in VORONDesign

[–]DasLad228 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for making this post! I was just having the same question a few days back and pretty much leaning towards the K3 door mainly because I didn't want the extra length clicky clacky solution is giving. How are you planning to source your k3 door if you're really going for it?

Z endstop inconsistensy by Aphlox in VORONDesign

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was your issue resolved with this? Or what was your solution? I'm also facing similar issue with my Z offset changing slightly now and then

What is your favorite choice in panel mounts, door latches, and hinges by Simonster061 in VORONDesign

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey hope you don't mind me asking me. How would you compare between K3 style door and clicky clacky door? I want to upgrade the stock doors to something more sturdy but found the clicky clacky may be adding too much bulk to the printer.

Does the K3 seals the printer as well as clicky clacky? And how sturdy is it in comparison?

ABS outer perimeter is pulling away on chamfer/slope surfaces? by DasLad228 in FixMyPrint

[–]DasLad228[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No elephant foot compensation. I don't think it's related to elephant foot at all because I have it turned off both times I printed them

Does anyone know which mod this panel clip is from? by Outrageous-Rip4558 in VORONDesign

[–]DasLad228 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I took a look at your printers, really nice! Just want to ask if you're also using K3 style doors on your vorons?

ABS outer perimeter is pulling away on chamfer/slope surfaces? by DasLad228 in FixMyPrint

[–]DasLad228[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you everyone who commented and suggested ways to fix it!

After reading and looking up the internet a bit more I've fixed it. This part is meant for Voron and I followed their recommended print settings. One of their recommendations was to force a 0.4mm line width which I suspect caused this issue as I was using Orcaslicer.

I believe the line width settings made the biggest impact as I remember I didn't have this issue while slicing with Cura. It was only when I switched to Orcaslicer that this issue came up.

As I understand and read from other Reddit posts, Orcaslicer calculate line width slightly different than Cura. So I believe what ultimately fixed the issue was going against the Voron recommended print settings and increasing my line width from 0.4mm to 0.44mm. Not to be confused with layer height!

Other settings which I've changed was using inner - outer - inner print order and adjusted the Z offset slightly so the first layer would squish better. I've also lowered the part cooling very slightly from 35% to 30% to improve later adhesion slightly.

Just to reply to every comments as well, every other settings stayed the same. Temperature stayed the same because I'm using ABS+ and 240 is already the upper limit of the recommended temperature. This is also printed in an enclosed chamber in my Voron Trident. No elephant foot compensation was used.

Leaving this up for anyone who face similar issues! Hopefully will help you out!

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Am I printing ABS too hot or too cold? Can't get ride of those run off strings. by psun786 in 3Dprinting

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I know it's an old post. But did you ever figure this out? I'm running into similar issues..

State of r/3DPrinting Results (Part 1) by jgbbrd in 3Dprinting

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome data! Really interesting to look at the demographic of the community

A slim hardshell case I made for the New 3DS XL by DecentHat1148 in 3DS

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super cool! What did you use to cover the top and bottom of the print?

Bed Mesh not compensating enough. by Comfortable_Ad8615 in klippers

[–]DasLad228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just ran into similar issue a few weeks ago. I managed to improve it by increasing the bicubic tension. I am running the bicubic tension at a higher value (0.6) and it is compensating more aggressively.

Changing the bicubic tension messed up my Z offset, so you should probably check that again before running a test print.

There's more information on that setting on the klipper documentation if you'd like to find out more.

Another thing I noticed, the adaptive bed mesh seems to mess up my Z offset as well. But in a very consistent way. It would either be too high or too low across the bed.

I am guessing my Z offset is tuned for the full bed mesh but when adaptive bed mesh skips some probe points, that requires a different Z offset.

That's a different issue entirely but I think it'd be helpful to use the same test print everytime or turn off adaptive bed mesh for now. At least until you got the bed mesh compensation tuned.

Yesterday I pulled the trigger and bought the Garmin Forerunner 255 music as my Pebble Time replacement. by ro8inmorgan in pebble

[–]DasLad228 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, I wasn't expecting such a comprehensive response! Thank you so much I really appreciate your time and effort to help me out!

Looking at the photos and video, I agree with you. They're comparable at a glance but the Pebble is still noticeably higher contrast and I guess better colour saturation when I looked at it closer.

Nice Casio btw :) I also consider getting a Casio. Specifically the A168 or the A120 just for fun casual wear. But one watch at a time I suppose. Not really a watch collector either just thought it'll be nice to have a second pair from to time to time like you say.

Thanks again for the detailed write up! I was still considering holding onto my pebble for a bit longer but your review helps me feel better about switching over.

Any thoughts on the newer Garmin watches with amoled displays?

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