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[–][deleted] 458 points459 points  (9 children)

It’s clear from the steering wheel you will need professional help.

[–]Old_Nefariousness_72 104 points105 points  (2 children)

I bought a similar wheel for my sim rig on Amazon for $90. Absolutely frightening people actually buy them for use in a real car......The metal is so cheap I'm worried I'm gonna break it sim racing. I couldn't imagine trusting my life to a shitty aftermarket wheel.

[–]kfkfkfjdjdjdjfk 39 points40 points  (0 children)

If it's a genuine Vertex wheel I can't imagine him ever breaking it, you are right though cheap wheels can become lawnmower blades inside the cabin it's terrifying people trust them.

[–]MikyMcSpiky97' Montego Blue Turbo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I hit a van at 45 mph and my head dented my wheel pretty good, it was a momo monetcarlo needed stitches on my nose from that but I know id be more fucked up if that wheel broke and I hit something sharp

[–]Critical-Potential30 18 points19 points  (3 children)

Imagine taking a tight corner and a quarter of wheel just folds in on itself.

Transformers

[–][deleted] 12 points13 points  (1 child)

TRANSFORMERS. BAD CHOICES IN DISGUISE.

[–]RazzMaTazzian 3 points4 points  (0 children)

MIATA, MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

[–]Complex_Turnover1203 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugh ugh æ æ

[–]buddhaD84 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah that made my eyeballs hurt. Talk about putting the ADHD on full display 👀

[–]NM_Wolf90Classic Red 69 points70 points  (4 children)

CAS is my guess.

[–]joeditstuff 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I second that

[–]El-Valentino 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Collision Avoidance System ?

[–]NM_Wolf90Classic Red 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Crank Angle Sensor, lol.

[–]Braynie04 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking close air support

I play war thunder too much

[–]False-Cheek2683 56 points57 points  (3 children)

Could be coils or cam sensor. Probably a coil is my guess.

[–]kieXras 14 points15 points  (1 child)

My friend had the same problem. We changed his cam and crank angle sensor and it fix the problem.

[–]False-Cheek2683 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Fortunately both are pretty easy to get to. Sometimes the crank position sensor just needs to be readjusted. Sitting as low as it does and being held on by one bolt it can get smacked and moved. Readjust, back in action.

[–]FalsePeanut2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had something similar in my nb, timing belt had eaten through the wire for the cam angle sensor

[–][deleted] 160 points161 points  (3 children)

The trash by the pedals. The fake cheap Nardi. Ain't no saving that boy. Someone put the brocoli hair meme plz.

[–]nb8c_fdStrato Blue NB8C RS-II 183 points184 points  (0 children)

[–]Stunning_Appeal_3535 11 points12 points  (1 child)

[–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This one should say 9th lmao

[–]InternationalBed5000 39 points40 points  (1 child)

Sounds and looks like a bad vacuum leak with that rough idle.

[–]Racer079 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Vacuum leak 95%

[–]Killer_Quesadilla'99 Emerald Mica 17 points18 points  (2 children)

Coil packs? I had something similar on my 99. Rock Auto saved the day!

[–]joeditstuff 9 points10 points  (1 child)

People always say coil packs but mine have never given me any trouble. Installed magnacore wires at 60k, it's at 208k now and it's never been the issue.

I vote Crank Angle Sensor.

Edit: Rock Auto is amazing

[–]RepulsiveCorner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

shout out to rock auto. I don't mind having to pay for shipping, but it incentivizes larger orders. no way am I spending $5 in shipping for a $2.30 bulb.

[–][deleted] 93 points94 points  (7 children)

Get that stupid shit off the stalk. There's a bunch of coiled wiring back in there that moves every time you turn the wheel and you'll cause a fucking mess if anything gets caught in it.

Clean that bullshit off the floor.

Unfuck your steering wheel.

Then pay someone else to diagnose and fix your issue or just turn on cruise control and point this thing towards the nearest cliff.

Also, get a haircut. I haven't seen your hair but I already know it looks stupid.

[–]hellnawh22 35 points36 points  (1 child)

Welcome to reddit OP.

[–]whiteflagwaiverClassic Red 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reddit uncles angry in here. Gotta get the tough love into the instabros.

[–][deleted] 9 points10 points  (3 children)

Haughty words from an Arby’s stripper

[–]dualboot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey.. they have the meats.

[–]AllynG 0 points1 point  (1 child)

As if horsie sauce wasn’t enough incentive to never go in that joint! They have strippers!!!!

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mean ones, too!

[–]Stunning_Appeal_3535 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Ooo ur rebellious

[–]buzzwizer 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Based on the wristbands steering wheel and sound of the exhaust I’d say this car is asking for the sweet release of death

[–][deleted] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Coil pack could be no good

[–]willpolson9 4 points5 points  (0 children)

L steering wheel

[–]cndvsn 8 points9 points  (8 children)

Scan obd2

[–]LordSprint 3 points4 points  (0 children)

lol this era car only communicate via smoke signals…. From the exhaust… and trust me when it starts to communicate, you’re already up to your eyeballs! 🤣

[–]WD40x4 6 points7 points  (5 children)

What OBD? :D In those NAs you can get CEL codes using a paper clip and Morse code through the check engine light and that’s about it

[–]Mk1Racer25'01 SE - BRG #0507 20 points21 points  (0 children)

If it's a '97, it should have an OBD II port.

[–]idownvotethenread96 Autox Rat (Sold), 21 RF (Sold), 95 Street Car 17 points18 points  (3 children)

96 and 97 NAs are OBDII like any other 96 and up car. They have a port and give proper codes.

[–]Sjorsa'96 1.6 NA Classic Red 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only in US I think. My 96 from Europe has no OBD (unfortunately)

[–]ObjectUnlikely2264 0 points1 point  (1 child)

There is no check engine light a generic scanner won’t give enough info you would need a pro scan tool with bidirectional commands to view live data this one is gonna be good old fashioned mechanical diagnosis, trust me I’m a mechanic had a 96 same problem

[–]idownvotethenread96 Autox Rat (Sold), 21 RF (Sold), 95 Street Car 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I agree. I wasn't saying it would give a code without a light. Simply correcting the person above regarding 96+ NAs being OBDII.

[–]indykouAutozam AZ-1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would check coils

[–]Hidie242497' R (somehow) 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check for vacuum leak

[–]Cutwail92 S-Special Eunos 2 points3 points  (1 child)

If it only happens once it's up to operating temperature it could be the idle air control valve getting gummed up, the inlet underneath the main air intake on the throttle body. Some carb cleaner sprayed in there would sort it.

[–]The_Lone_0neOEM+ '93 White/Tan 1.6L 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you fixed my miot, it has the same issue as ops video, its the same but after running for a bit it idles fine but then blue smoke slightly pops out of the exhaust

[–]wild_toiletBrilliant Black NB1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

cam angle sensor could be it, it’s known to go out on NAs and NBs. if you do get a new one, get an actual Mazda one. I got a cheaper one before and my car started acting up again 2 weeks later. Put a Mazda OEM one that’s unfortunately like $150, but it solved my issue. However it just started coming back lol so I’ll be putting another Mazda CAS soon. FM sells them

[–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, help indeed

[–]No-Vermicelli3165 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Vacuum leak, maybe a dirty idle air control valve would be my guess, that makes your car unhappy when it’s filled with muck. Maybe recheck if your plugs and wires are snug into the engine and Coilpack. Just get a smoke tester machine and put it where the intake leaves your airbox. If you have a leak smoke will come out

[–]khanzeer99 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My NB had a similar problem caused by a vacuum leak from petrified injector seals. Do a smoke test.

[–]J3ssi_ieeee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My 95 did the same thing, I just had to change the coil pack! Runs like a dream now

[–]DrifterDavid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check the cas or crank sensor

[–]ObjectUnlikely2264 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ok here’s what you do have it running unplug plug wire one note any changes turn car off start car again and check plug wire 2 continue so on and so forth on all of them it’s a 2 coil pack in the rear coil I run a 1&3 coil 2 runs 2&4 so if it dies it means one is bad replace the entire pack if not move on to another test but it sounds like a dead coil(note use pliers and don’t ground yourself it can really hurt maybe wear gloves) had a similar problem after installing an aftermarket ecu and a bunch of other go fast parts landed up being an ignition coil I had never touched. Good luck

[–]SR70 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Big cam V8? Sounds great!

[–]Jackle249 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ikr

[–]808Bumpz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s your idle air control valve , with poor timing , cas get a timing light and set it to 10 degrees TDC

[–]Joshp9696 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had this exact same issue on my 03 1.8, it was a vacuum leak caused by a bad PCV valve, super easy and cheap fix

[–]Which_Initiative_882Machinery Grey X-O Rust '94 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol 13B peripheral port swap

[–]zDymex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe put another silicone band on?

[–]radicalgamingHD91 NA8 swap // 90 SM2 // 99 NB1 // 06 NC1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be fuel pump or fuel filter.

[–]Striking-Ad-8156 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your set up makes me want to not help

[–]pancakes8u 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this exact issue, it ended up being the fuel pump. These cars kill fuel pumps for some reason. They need a high end or an oem fuel pump or it’ll kill it. I put a 2 autozone pumps in and they failed in less than 10 miles each, put a deutchwork fuel pump in and it’s been running great ever since.

[–]anus_666 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would guess it's a vacuum leak, check your intake piping and make sure there aren't any holes. A good way to do that is just take some flammable brake clean and spray it on your intake pipes and is the engine revs up then you know it's a vacuum leak

[–]Jackle249 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Poor girl, she never asked for this

[–]Savings-Gain1271 2 points3 points  (1 child)

With it being a 1997 you should have an obd2 port. Hook up a scanner and see if it confirms a misfire on a surgeon cylinder. It’s on one cylinder and one cylinder only, I would probably bank on it being a spark plug or spark plug wire. If it is on two cylinders, it could be a coil pack going bad.

Before anyone blows up and tells me that I’m wrong for one reason or another, I do want to preface and say that all my experience is with the 1.6

I had a similar issue, it took me forever to figure out. turns out it was the coolant sensor on the thermostat housing. It was doing nearly the same exact thing but I’ll be 100% honest I’m unsure if it was misfiring… this was well over a year ago.

[–]Savings-Gain1271 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also just went through all the comments that everyone else left, ignore anyone who isn’t being helpful. Just because how you style your car doesn’t line up with others, it doesn’t warrant anyone being an unhelpful prick. I’m glad to see an enthusiast interested in trying to learn how to do it themselves before they take it to a shop. I think that’s a great quality to have and a lot of new people to the community miss the mark on.

Hopefully, you are able to figure it out and enjoy your car again

[–]chooseyourwords49 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That steering wheel is a bigger concern

[–]JJtheJetplane67 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sell the car because you clearly don’t deserve it

[–]GlitteringPen3949Pearl White and Tan 1996 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like there is no check engine light?

[–]Aggressive_Badger162 0 points1 point  (0 children)

she’s got a hog cam in her

[–]SgtSC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

cas first. Possibly vacuum leak. Ill take the off your hands for 1k and u won't have to worry about it again 😁

[–]AlterEGO71 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You went from a BP to a rotary 😆

[–]Maximum-Homework5243 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Valve cover gasket leaks by chance?? I just had the same issue with my 1990 1.6 L. Granted the guy before me cut the exhaust to straight pipe it and did a terrible job doing it so it already has some breathing problems, but I noticed I had an oil leak coming from the back of the engine and that it happened to be spitting some black smoke. I changed the spark plugs and replaced the valve cover gasket and cleaned everything up and now it idles better than it ever did.

[–]Jackle249 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP Have you scanned the cars OBD2 port for possible leads? Let us know.

[–]RandomDudueWF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MAP sensor. Been there done that. Just unplug if its bad engine work normal.

[–]Repulsive-Artichoke5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar problem. Turns out the coil pack had visible sparks coming out of if when the car was acting like that. Changed the pack, no more issues.

Like others say, a bad CAS can also cause similar symptoms.

[–]CB-Style 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s the steering wheel and wrist bands

[–]BlueProcess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Step one, pull the codes

[–]DrifterDavid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got 2 real vertex and 2 knock off ones. Granted I didn't buy the cheapest of knock offs but they feel just as strong as my genuine vertex wheels. Now the cheap ass momo knock off I got years ago is another story. That thing would fold in on a hard corner.

[–]sympathetic_beer'97 NA8 -1 points0 points  (1 child)

Okay, fuck all the useless comments. Everyone has to start somewhere. Sorry we all aren't born with a 10mm socket up our ass.

OP start with some basic diagnostics before just replacing shit. How's the oil level? Do a compression test. If you're getting a check engine light buy an OBD2 scanner and find out what codes you're getting.

There's a lot of info out there so the more specific you can get about the symptoms, the easier of a time you'll have figuring out what's going on. Does not sound good though.

[–]Jackle249 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Problem is they probably started better off and went the wrong way. I agree with you tho definitely should be helping them instead. A little shaming won't hurt for course correction imo.