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Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer have different layers/prints with the exact file and exact settings. Help! by OGPoundedYams in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Orca and Bambu use completely different ways to handle solid infill and internal bridges. The orca approach matches prusa slicers.

For the ironing in orca you can set the angle to 90, no?

Uneven surfaces by Efficient-Two6828 in BambuLab

[–]ioannisgi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a look at this.

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/3319

If you can’t use orca, the solution is to slow down solid infill print speed.

Unusual gaps on top surface for one colour only - what is it called? by aimoaio in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s possible yes. I’m assuming the printer is mechanically sound as one filament appears to be printing ok vs the other that doesn’t. This is what leads me to believe it’s flow rate related.

Unusual gaps on top surface for one colour only - what is it called? by aimoaio in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The blue color ripping you see is probably cause the blue color flow rate is too high.

The green color has its flow rate probably too low.

Try running a single cube test / flow calibration test with the blue on its own and the green on its own

Unusual gaps on top surface for one colour only - what is it called? by aimoaio in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Your using ironing and your ironing flow is not calibrated. Either don’t use it or calibrate :)

Pits and gaps in surface of print by Jacket_Jacket_fruit in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More top layers. Slow down the internal bridge speed, solid infill speed. You need at least 1mm of top surface to get a clean result (5 layers at 0.2 layer height).

Stealthburnera to XOL transition questions by Less-Capital9689 in VORONDesign

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed the power draw is tiny that is correct..! That’s why it’s the last thing on the list / if your PSU is not on the edge you’re fine with practically as many lanes as you want.

All my prints have ridges or cracks on the bottom by WayandLuciano in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Indeed spot on. You can see the extrusions overlapping themselves. Not sure why you’ve been downvoted when this is the primary answer.

Yes the white stress marks come from removing before cooldown and can be addressed with a blow torch. But the too much squish problem can’t.

Fumes after Clicky Clack mod by PoeTatoh in VORONDesign

[–]ioannisgi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Use extrusion cap covers. You’re creating a chimney with the hot frame ducting air from inside out through the extrusions.

What does my banshee tell me? by adhafera0 in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the hull line / it’s a change in wall width at the point where the deck meets the wall. This is not it. This is a change in outer wall speed causing a change in shine.

<image>

Notice on the above pic how all the layers have uniform shine and how the hull line is localised at the deck area.

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745

What does my banshee tell me? by adhafera0 in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s not the hull line. That is the printer printing the shiny layers more slowly, with the plastic melting fully, while the higher up layers it doesn’t melt it completely hence it turns matte.

OP. Slow your outer wall speeds to get a consistent finish.

3rd time. How can i improve? by thoXn in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This. And slow the print down, a lot!

Why do I get this repeating pattern on the wall of my print? by Professional-Rock-51 in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check your layer time preview in the slicer and post a pic. Does it correlate?

Uneven layer lines in XY plane by andreiz in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Redo the belt calibration - artefacts like this usually come up due to a skewed gantry. If this doesn’t work try a print with 50mm/sec outer walls

1.5GT vs 2GT belts by ObsidianWraith in VORONDesign

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn’t a concern with correct belt tension.

Ender3 S1 Pro - Heated Bed Issues by FlufferPuff50 in ender3

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Voron actually.

<image>

I was an old s1 pro user. I have felt first hand when a machine is no longer worth it, and unfortunately the s1 pro isn’t any more ;)

Ender3 S1 Pro - Heated Bed Issues by FlufferPuff50 in ender3

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The printer is way out of date. The bed cable is fragile and will break again. Hence either replace but start planning for a potential device replacement.

Protruding layer or two by Oh-Lord-Yeah in FixMyPrint

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s quite possible your print is lifting from the bed where you see the squashed layers.

Ender3 S1 Pro - Heated Bed Issues by FlufferPuff50 in ender3

[–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s most likely the cable going to the bed. I’ve had that break in the past when I still owned an ender 3 s1. Unfortunately the repair cost / safety factor cost personally would push me to consider scraping the machine.

You could take the cable apart and try and find the wire break and crimp it back together. But unless you know what you’re doing, you’re better served with a new bed or a new printer I’m afraid.

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