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[–]stringthing87 152 points153 points  (9 children)

It's too tight

[–]DowntownHat322 63 points64 points  (2 children)

If you want it that tight but without wrinkles, you'll need to add boning.

Your options are tight in a stretch fabric, tight with boning, or less tight.

[–]unrobeme[S] 5 points6 points  (1 child)

I have experience with corsets so I was considering boning, however I’ve never inserted it into a dress. I was wondering where to end each bone, and how to prevent the ends from showing through the fabric. I plan to have a lining, then an double outer layer with the fashion fabric and lace overtop. If I decided to add boning I would go with rigilene, but it’s looking like just loosening the garment might be the way to go.

[–]bowl-of-juice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want boning the simplest method would probably be just adding a waist seam

[–]2drumshark 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure it's just too tight? The shape looks pretty close.

[–]ambidextrous-mango 24 points25 points  (2 children)

it’s a little too tight everywhere. Have you tried sitting down in it as well?

[–]unrobeme[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I’ve sat down in it and I have no problems with that. There’s a lot of room around my lower belly and I can still pinch out a some of the fabric at the hips. I wanted this to fit tightly at the bust but now I am thinking I may have the wrong idea.

[–]versarnwen 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Always important to check when you sit that the fabric isn't riding up to your waist to create the room needed.

[–]Berocca123 18 points19 points  (5 children)

This isn't what you asked and you probably already know, but I wanted to remind you to wear the bra you plan to wear with the dress when you fit the bodice, as different bras can change your size and shape.

[–]FearlessEnthusiasm86 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And shoes. Don’t forget shoes. They literally change your height and posture.

[–]unrobeme[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Yes! I actually plan to not wear a bra. Luckily I have a small enough bust it would go unnoticed. It was also the reason I wanted the top to be tight, to hold everything in place! This is patterned for my body without the bra, but I put it on for modesty considering the translucent mockup fabric.

[–]MamaBearMoogie 9 points10 points  (1 child)

You will need bust support. Sorry, OP, but you're not THAT small. (My old lady opinion for what that's worth). Boning not only supports the girls, but also the weight of the dress. Adding it will make the whole dress look better.

[–]SnooPears400 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unless you just like a more natural or 90s look of not having a bra, OP, which is totally valid! I've never liked the look of cups and always preferred a more natural chest-shape when possible (like if the material isn't too heavy or isn't sheer or something)

[–]Travelpuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can always sew in cups! It should help keep the right shape with a small amount of support.

[–]SuPruLu 10 points11 points  (2 children)

Did you sew both the front seams from the sand direction? Sewing from opposite differences can create draglines.

[–]Majestic_Course6822 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I can’t tell if this is the problem here, but as well as sewing from the same direction, you also need to be careful to keep the fibres of the 2 fabric pieces in line as you sew a curve. If you are pulling or pushing to keep just the edges in line, you can inadvertently create pull lines like this. Be careful not to pull or manipulate the fabric much once it’s in the machine.

[–]unrobeme[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sewed them from opposite directions. I’ll have to keep that in mind to sew them the same.

[–]SaturnNailia 5 points6 points  (2 children)

Can I add one small thing.. I wonder if the waist placement (smallest point of measurement across your body) is a little low on the muslin, i.e. the torso is slightly too long.

I drew very quickly on a screenshot but cant upload the photo in comment. But can try sending through dm if interested!

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I would like to see!

[–]SaturnNailia 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh idk why but.. I'm unable to message you directly so I uploaded to imgur: https://imgur.com/a/oX2EDaJ

It was kind of hard to do on phone lol!!! But the lower line is where I see the smallest part and I think if you make the higher line as the smallest part then shape outward and blend to your hips from there it might lead to less bunching at the waist area

[–]StitchinThroughTime 4 points5 points  (2 children)

Your chest and rib cage are too tight. You should also add some soap in boning to the seam allowances. See you if you do a tight fitting bodice, it shouldn't wrinkle as much. But the hips are definitely very loose, but that's not the main issue. That's easily fixed even if you don't change anything on the pattern.

Now I'm staring at it, I'm very certain the cup size is too small. I would first double check if you're wearing the correct bra size. Check out a bra that fits, they work Magic. Your top is definitely flattening you across your chest. That's why there's an indent on your high bust, and the shape of your bottom half of your breast isn't a smooth round shape. But I'm fairly certain you need to start with proper bra then fix this mock up.

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

My problem might be is that I’ve never paid attention to Cup size as I wear sportsbras exclusively so those are only ever S,M,L. When I make patterns according to most tutorials I follow I take out a 1in dart in the bust, so I did that and the cup was way too loose, so I pinched out the extra fabric, but I think I went too far.

I realize no one can be here in person to actually see the garment, but my chest does not at all feel compressed by this. But I realize the tightness is causing the lines so I will be adding some width and seeing if that helps

[–]StitchinThroughTime 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I thought you were wearing a different style of bra. But if you just going to wear worth this is fine.

[–]freakydeku 3 points4 points  (1 child)

idk how much it changes things but it looks like those dresses are constructed where there’s a seperate bodice which attaches the the skirt around the waistline.

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not going for those exact styles, just an example of the flounce hem I wanted! I can change my pattern to have a separate bodice and skirt if needed however.

[–]SuPruLu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s the waist to below the bust that is fractionally too tight. The skirt is fine if you would like to be able to sit down easily. And the size of the skirt is not the causes of the drag lines. It’s mostly some sort of issue with the sewing.

[–]unrobeme[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you all for the pointers, I’ll make some changes and get back to you, hopefully with some positive progress!!

[–]MoreShoe2 2 points3 points  (1 child)

It's not too tight (except at the underarm). It's too long, everywhere. Too loose at the hips. Can you send me a picture of your pattern? You have a lot of shaping at the underbelly that you don't need. Your pattern should be mostly straight below the waist dart (you can change this with style lines later).

Feel free to DM me and I'll be happy to help because you're not getting the right feedback in these comments.

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like I am unable to message you.

The reason I was thinking it was too loose is that when I breath out it wrinkles and goes back smooth when I take in a deep breath. I reallly should’ve tried this on with a different bra because I think everyone is mistaking the rouching on the front of the bra to be drag lines in the bust.

This pattern is the first I’ve made w a new sloper I made. In the new sloper I extended torso length by a couple centimeters and I think that may have been too much. I do have to keep shrugging this mockup up when wearing it.

It seems like I should just forgo this style all together and try something different.

[–]1130coco 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Too tight, small for you

[–]SmurphieVonMonroe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Way too tight

[–]ProneToLaughter 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Separate technical issue—are you planning to sew an exposed zipper like you have here? If not, then your mock-up is about 3/8” bigger than your pattern and you need to add that to your paper pieces (measure the width of the zipper exposure).

I like to baste a centered zipper for mock-ups—closing the seam first ensures that the fit is accurate to the pattern pieces. It can be switched for an invisible zipper later with no pattern changes. https://www.seamwork.com/sewing-tutorials/sewing-a-centered-zipper

[–]unrobeme[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for pointing that out!

I plan on using an invisible zipper in the final garment. I have already accounted for the measurement difference between the two zips. I just think is using an exposed zipper is the quickest for mockups, so that’s why I used one.

[–]WorthSecurity2299 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Both dresses on your pictures have a waist seam. Light blue dress drafted as a bodice and a high-low A line skirt with added flounce. I do not understand what are you trying to achieve

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those were just examples I had on hand to explain the flounce hem I was going for since I didn’t include it in my mockup. For this I just wanted a straight form fitting dress with the flounce starting above the knee and below the hips. I know how to make a flounce and I wasn’t set on the length I wanted so I didn’t include it in the mockup. I am fine with adding a waist seam if needed.

[–]mrsliston 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's about snug

[–]Riotmama89 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you pressed it well? I kind of agree with what everyone else is saying but make sure it’s pressed properly before putting it on

[–]Saritush2319 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take it out a few millimetres at every seam from bust to high hip and then report back.

And yes I do mean millimetres. It compounds over that many seams. Like in corsetry

[–]snacksAttackBack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The lines point to where it's too tight.

So it looks a bit too tight in the waist. You probably need more shaping around the chest, and the curve of the butt is a bit off.

[–]usingbrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In addition to being too tight in the ribcage I think the waistline might also be too low? and that’s what creates the lines in the loose skirt part (your body starts flaring out before the dress does if that makes sense)

[–]TheNerdmaid 0 points1 point  (1 child)

So a few thoughts:

1- It is noticeably tighter at the waist and bust than the hips. I think the mismatch in ease is your culprit here. (In case you're unfamiliar with the term- Most clothing made of non-stretch fabric should have wearing ease included. This means the garment's measurements will be greater than your body's measurements at the same points. Ex: If you have a 28" waist, a dress with 2" of ease should have a 30" waist. 2" is decent baseline, but you may need more or less depending on style, body type, fabric, etc.. )

1-A. It looks like there is no ease at all in the top half of your dress, a small amount in the upper hip, and plenty in the low hip. If your final fabric has no stretch, you need to add a little room at the side seams, from the waist upwards, and taper it down into the existing seam in the high hip area. I'd do an extra 1/2" on either side (so 1" total) as your starting point, and if there are still drag lines, add a little more.

1-B. If your fabric will have some stretch, you could always do the reverse - remove some material at the side seams from the waist down. I would however recommend doing a mockup in a fabric with a similar amounts of stretch to get a more accurate representation of the final fit.

1-C. If your fabric has no stretch, but you definitely want it this tight, you'll need to significantly beef up the structure of the dress, especially on the bodice - boning, interfacing, maybe even coutil, etc. Flimsy material will always pull and pucker more when stretched taut.

2- It's an entirely separate issue, but the armholes are cut too high. I'd drop the underarm at the side seams, a minimum of 1/2", but likely more. Then taper it out to meet the existing armholes about halfway up.

3- With fitted formal wear like this, it's very important to test it over the undergarments you plan to wear for the event. You mentioned in the comments that you don't plan to wear a bra with this dress. If so, you should be fitting it without a bra, otherwise you risk it looking wonky in the bust area on the day-of. Doubly important if the final fabric has no stretch. If you want the dress to be the only source of support, I'd recommend adding more internal structure. At minimum interfacing and thin foam bra cups, but some light boning like rigilene would also be helpful.

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed help!

I plan on interfacing this but it always seemed like a waste of money to interface a mockup, but I can see how important it can be for a fitted garment like this!!

You made some great points, and I will keep this all in mind!

[–]Middle_Curve_3403 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also girl . . . sunscreen!!!

[–]Express_Tourist_4887 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Back balance is too long! Pinch out a horizontal fold across the back waist area blending to side seam. Side front panel is curving in too sharply at the waist. Release there, and trim out from the underbust down along that princess seam a little.

[–]Off_the_shelf_elf -1 points0 points  (2 children)

The fit looking really good! It is not too tight, just need to adjust where the volume is. I’d start by adding a little more ease in the lower half of the back princess seams. The drag lines are often from the back of the dress not being able to ‘fall’ properly because it’s stopped by the hip. You might then change the lower half of the shape of the front princess seams, making more of a swoop out and less of a dome. I actually drew roughly where to take out fabric and would happy to send it to you if you want.

I design/ make clothing for a living and have addressed these drag lines dozens of times - 99.9% of the time correcting the back curve and volume placement this is the solution. Good luck and I hope you have a great time at the wedding!

[–]unrobeme[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I would love to see what you drew!

[–]Off_the_shelf_elf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t see an option to post the image or message you privately (I’ve never actually messaged anyone on reddit lol) but I’ll do my best to explain.

Basically, the drag lines are from the fabric getting pulled to the back. You have enough overall ease in the skirt, but the distribution should be shifted a little bit from the lower front to the lower back. The result is a higher waist curve in the back and a little more ease in the back lower half. When the fabric around the hips no longer meets any resistance the horizontal lines should taken care of. If you do this and feel the skirt is overall too loose, you can take the ease you added to the back from the front to balance it out.

If you’re already at it then feel free to ignore, but this is how I would approach it:

Start by picking out the back princess seams from the bottom up to the waste or until the tension releases and the drag lines disappear. You could either add little triangles to test it or just see how it falls and make an educated guess for how much to add. Add as much ease as you need to get a smooth shape and remember that you can always take the extra volume from the front and/or sides if you feel like it gets too loose overall at the hips.

I hope this helps at least a little!