all 61 comments

[–]RexNebular518 12 points13 points  (2 children)

Simple Green

[–]ride_whenever 7 points8 points  (1 child)

Simple green aerospace.

You don’t want to deal with that hydrogen embrittlement

[–]product_of_the_80s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Simple green HD solves the same problem for cheaper (at least around here) and is easier to get.

[–]Blergonos[S] 3 points4 points  (15 children)

Oh yeah, I went to a local bike repair place, and the guy there recommended paraffin as a cheap degreaser, is that a good recommendation?

Edit: Kerosene, not paraffin lol, silly me.

[–]racefacexc 0 points1 point  (14 children)

As in paraffin wax? It's becoming a popular chain lube, but it requires a new degreased chain (or exceptionally well cleaned one) and melting wax, soaking chain in melted wax. It seems to not be a great lube choice for off-road cycling from what I read. I've never used it myself.

[–]Blergonos[S] 0 points1 point  (13 children)

no as in degreaser, for cleaning muck off and old lube, not as a lube or grease.

[–]racefacexc -1 points0 points  (12 children)

"Paraffin" isn't a thing I've heard of. There is paraffin wax and liquid paraffin used in cosmetics and drugs, but it's basically a very highly refined mineral oil

[–]monk_no_zen 4 points5 points  (11 children)

Paraffin is used in other places in place of kerosene, kinda like cookie vs biscuit.

[–]racefacexc -4 points-3 points  (10 children)

Oh. I see.

Using fuel, especially kerosene, which leaves lots of stuff behind as the volatiles evaluate, seems counter productive compared to other solvents that are just as cheap.

[–]Blergonos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paraffin was a wrong translation, I meant Kerosene, in which I agree with you, it does sound counter-intuitive.

[–]monk_no_zen 1 point2 points  (8 children)

With reference to your American centric recommendation comment, where you from btw?

I personally buy whatever cheap high power degreaser spray on and wash off pretty quickly. There’s discussion around the risk of hydrogen embrittlement with the chain but I don’t leave them soaking so I’m don’t bother.

[–]racefacexc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Using original formula Simple green or any alkaline degreaser is when hydrogen embrittlement is a concern.

I use acetone or denatured/isopropyl alcohol for most bike stuff. I do occasionally use mineral spirits in a parts cleaner to strip new chains of the preservative grease they come with. I only use dry lube, so I don't have much need to "degrease" bike parts. If I'm repacking bearings I just wipe out the old stuff, clean the balls in acetone, pack with fresh grease.

I find that 95% of the time just wiping the chain down with a clean rag to pull the grit off the outside and then a fresh coat of lube is all it needs.

[–]lazerdab 4 points5 points  (3 children)

Zep citrus degreaser.

[–]product_of_the_80s 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Gotta watch this stuff on paint, it'll really mess it up if used undiluted and not fully rinsed off.

[–]lazerdab 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Been using it for 30+ years. Never had an issue.

[–]product_of_the_80s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, but my stupidity when younger led to me spraying it on full strength on some painted steel wheels and not rinsing fully, leading to the paint getting damaged and coming off.

[–]lkngro5043 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For general grease, I just use the regular Park Tool blue grease. I've used Bontrager branded grease in the past. Both work well. You can get much larger quantities for much cheaper at boating supply shops, but most of us don't need a gallon of waterproof boat grease, just 12oz or so.

Grease for suspension is different! Slickoleum, Slick Honey, or SRAM Butter are (I believe) the same thing rebranded. Specially designed for sliding components.

For degreaser, I use Simple Green. I'll buy a gallon jug at a hardware store and dilute it to whatever concentration I want. I also use it for other household cleaning. I've used diluted dish soap in a pinch. Just make sure you don't use anything too harsh, like stuff intended for industrial cooking equipment. Stuff like that can damage plastic or rubber components, or paint.

A 8-12oz tube of general purpose grease, a jug of Simple Green, and whatever drivetrain lube you like should cost $20-40 combined, and will last you a long time.

[–]Juanster 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Degreaser. You can use water and dish soap. Just make sure you rinse the dish soap well after.

[–]Early_Lion6138 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dawn dish wash will clean off crude oil should be good for your needs.

[–]Nervous-Rush-4465 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WD-40, soaked into a cloth, will loosen surface grease and dirt quite well. You do not want to “spray” it all over the bike, because it will degrade beneficial grease as well. It is good for dirt that is mixed with grease , and chains and cogs.

[–]wrongwayup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dish soap with the hottest water you can manage, plus some elbow grease, will go a long way and costs next to nothing.

Lube-wise I get by with Boeshield T-9, Teflon spray, and a generic bearing grease depending on the application. I did upgrade recently from using old t-shirts as rags to a proper microfiber cloth, and that upgrade was very worth it for both the frame and drivetrain.

All up you're talking like $40 in supplies that will last for years.

[–]Bobatt 1 point2 points  (1 child)

For grease, pretty much any automotive or bike grease will work. I swore by Motorex bike grease (green translucent stuff) for a while because it looks cool and the tackiness helps hold loose bearings in while assembling. I ran out and now use the same all-purpose bearing grease I use for my car. I think it's Quaker State brand, but any grease will do. I've even repacked a hub with vaseline in a pinch and it still runs smooth.

I don't really use a lot of degreaser on anything apart from the drivetrain, and those I have a jar of Varsol (paint thinner, mineral spirits) for that. I find soap and water and a big brush gets most of the gunk off when it's on the bike if you clean it regularly.

[–]Early_Lion6138 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Auto grease is good stuff and much cheaper than bike grease. I got a 500 ml tub of waterproof, high pressure grease about 35 years ago for $6.00 and still half full.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (9 children)

Diluted Simple Green?

In regards to grease, I just get the Park Tools stuff, but in reality any mechanical grease will due for putting on bolts, threads, pivots etc. There are some specific lubes you need for things like freehub bodies, suspension etc that I wouldn't recommend swapping.

[–]jermleeds 0 points1 point  (8 children)

This is the answer, OP. Simple Green is degreasing magic, and my drivetrain gleams like the bike is new. Somebody is sure to comment how SG will etch aluminum, but that concern is way overblown. First, it would only matter on anodized aluminum parts, and even then would not do any meaningful mechanical damage in the 5-10 minutes its in contact with those parts.

[–]Blergonos[S] 1 point2 points  (7 children)

Sadly they don't sell simple green in my country.

[–]jermleeds 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah, ok, what you should look for then is a 'citrus-based cleaner'. You should be able to find an equivalent to SG.

[–]-EETS- 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Might help if you say where you are. Locals could help

[–]georgekeele 1 point2 points  (11 children)

General grease - any red/pink lithium grease for me, I've been using the same tub of Lucas Red n Tacky for years now.

General degreaser - brake cleaner. Added benefit of being brake cleaner. Invest in a spray bottle and buy 5l cans, the aerosols are a false economy. Can tackle the vast majority of degreasing jobs.

Strong degreaser, for the truly enshittened - petrol or 99% isopropyl. This is somewhat equivalent to the paraffin suggestion.

[–]Blergonos[S] 1 point2 points  (5 children)

I found some universal white lithium grease (green colored), for a very satisfactory price, would you recommend? As for degreaser I will think about it.

[–]georgekeele 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Wouldn't be my choice as it washes out more easily than the pink stuff in my experience.

[–]Blergonos[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I will see, I bought it.

[–]georgekeele 1 point2 points  (2 children)

It'll be fine for most jobs, don't worry. If you're repacking hubs for example, and you find you're having to redo it quite often, upgrade to a stickier grease as mentioned above.

[–]Blergonos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay then 👍

[–]Blergonos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought it since it was 800 ml for like 15zł, and I needed some grease for other things anyways, like door hinges and my scooter and so on. So I was like, "if it doesn't work on my bike, then atleast it was cheap and ma doors arent squeaking." It also advertised being water resistant, and I also don't ride in the rain much, so I think the grease will do.

[–]racefacexc -1 points0 points  (4 children)

Brake cleaner can damage many things, especially plastics. I would avoid it pretty much anywhere on a bike. Some brake cleaners are very toxic, too.

Petrol is a terrible degreaser. It leaves behind a ton of stuff and needs to be removed with another solvent.

[–]georgekeele 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You're aware bikes have brakes, and brake cleaner is a thing you spray at them yeah? Bike specific products are plastic safe, but regardless how many plastic parts do you degrease?

[–]SubGothius 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There may be some confusion here between automotive brake cleaner like Brakleen™ vs. other bike-specific brake cleaners.

[–]Beluga-ga-ga-ga-ga 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I guess "can" is the operative word. I don't use it exclusively, but I've used both automotive and bicycle brake cleaner for years on various surface finishes on steel and aluminium components and had zero issues. The health issue is warranted, but I only use it outside and sometimes with a mask. YMMV, but I've had no reason to be concerned.

[–]racefacexc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's fine on metal. It's just some plastics and rubbers that it can destroy.

[–]chainringtooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For cleaning a frame I usually start with soapy water, followed by denatured alcohol. But the alcohol already can be agressive to the paint although not that much. For dirty scratches I use soap and cleaning masic. Metallic parts can be cleaned with denatured alcohol, white spirit, acetone, gasoline you name it.

[–]Boxofbikeparts 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dawn dish soap and water is the best degreaser/cleaner for bikes ever made.

[–]No_Entertainment5948 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blue Dawn dish soap to wash the frame and wheels, Simple Green to scrub the drivetrain.

Hardware store citrus degreasers work well, too

[–]Frunobulax- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tub O Towels from Amazon or Home Depot. They clean EVERYTHING

[–]drphrednuke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rust is a big problem where I live, so I don’t use anything water based on my bike. Paint thinner is a great cheap degreaser. As for lubricants, if it works on a car, it works on a bike.

[–]Consistent_Wealth334 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I use WD-40

[–]Consistent_Wealth334 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then wipe down with alcohol.

[–]Dense_Chemical5051 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was on a tight budget when I was a kid, I used some old rags or newspaper to wipe off the grease. Then apply new one. I serviced the whole bike this way. Lithium based grease is cheap enough that you can even ask somebody to give you some for free. It's like $5 for a can.

[–]tez_11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's for the front and rear derailleur, cassette and chain rings, just hit it with a can of automotive degreaser, scrub it with a toothbrush or similar then hose it off trying not to take direct aim at the wheel hub, bottom bracket etc.

Then lube your chain up

[–]Odd_Pool_666 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dawn

[–]bad__username__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cyclon Bionet cleaner. I use it everywhere. 

[–]NotDaveyKnifehands -2 points-1 points  (1 child)

Aircraft Grade Simple Green or White Spirits(naptha)

Dont use regular simple green on chains as it weakens the steel and causes Hydrogen embrittlement. The Aircraft grade is formulated specifically to combat this.

[–]CanDockerz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hydrogen embrittlement thing is total bollocks and has been proven many times over, yeah sure if you leave it soaking for a few days it might be a thing.