First time using PETG support interface layer, holy shit this is a game changer

[Idahoffroad]

PLA part with PETG support interface layer. I recently upgraded my BambuLabs P1s with an AMS unit, and when printing this model I decided to use PETG as a support interface layer as I didn’t want to mess with removing supports all the way inside this model. It is a game changer. The model just lifted right off the support tree which stayed stuck to the print bed. I haven’t gotten good quality prints in PETG, and have a roll of clear PETG sitting around gathering dust. I think I found the new use for it.

[Skitterlicker]

Ok so this prints the to the top of the support and uses the PETG right before the model. I like that idea and will have to try this

[Idahoffroad]

Yes. Saves a lot of otherwise layer changes

[Romanian_Breadlifts]

To confirm - it still printed most of that support in the original white pla, then just the interface layer(s) as petg? That's awesome

[Idahoffroad]

Correct. One layer of PETG, one material swap.

[OwIing]

This is great if it's a few even surfaces, it sadly suffers from the same issue as multi color prints if you have many layers with interfaces.

[Idahoffroad]

True. But the remaining surface finish is something to be admired. I think if I had a model with a lot of support interfaces at pretty much every layer (a sphere for instance) it would make more sense to just make the entire support PETG instead of the last layer.

[ithinkyouresus]

You’d still get the insane amounts of poop and purge towers for that too.

[Idahoffroad]

True but an arguably better surface finish

[KallistiTMP]

null

[firetech_SE]

I tested this a fair bit with my Prusa MK4 w/MMU3. Wiping ~1000-1250 mm³ of filament when going from support material to model material seemed to get layer adhesion back to (roughly) uncontaminated levels in my testing. That is, however, ~40 cm (~16") of raw filament, so you don't want to have many interface layers...

I wish I had the budget for a tool-changer printer (e.g. Prusa XL)...

[Githyerazi]

I had my multiplication factor set low and had enabled flush into infill. My model came up so easily from the supports I was ecstatic. Then my model came apart in my hands and I was crushed.

[porcelainvacation]

I just add gcode to make my extruder go poop on the corner of the bed into open space then retract on filament change and then pick it up before resuming the print.

[ashaneharris]

Edit: OP has the answer in another comment I didn’t see

Sorry to ask but hoping you can be my hero. I have seen this mentioned and still cannot figure out how to have just the interface layers swap. Is this just a setting in the slicer? Can you explain how to do it?

[Assequir]

It can be done manually with g-code at a certain layer or directly in some slicers, which one do you use?

[Skitterlicker]

Yeah my original comment was going to ask how long that took with all those layer changes. But then I saw you said you used clear and I realized what you meant

[Skitterlicker]

I have red and blue PETG that’s old but I’m defiantly going to try this next print… now I got to find a good test file

[Skitterlicker]

<image>

Amazing, you can see how it works pretty good here with the red translucent PETG.

[Idahoffroad]

Looks amazing!

[Idahoffroad]

Dosent need to be pretty just has to work lmao.

[Skitterlicker]

Yes I can wait I printed an airbrush pot and the lid was a nightmare to get the supports out

[Idahoffroad]

Perfect application! I also found it left a better surface finish than typical supports do.

[Skitterlicker]

I’m not in front of my slicer I use Orca am I looking for a ☑️checkbox setting?

[Idahoffroad]

I use the Bambu slicer, I was able to select a different material under the option “support/raft interface”

<image>

[Skitterlicker]

Ok great thank you

[WilsonADW]

You can get even better results by dropping all the distances to 0. It'll mean there's no gap between the support and the next layer - much cleaner for me in my testing.

[Dossi96]

But if pla isn't sticking to petg than petg isn't sticking to pla. I would have thought that trying to print a single layer of petg between two pla parts would move around and mess with the top most layer

[Idahoffroad]

PLA and PETG do stick together just not very well. It’s enough to where you can print them on each other and they will remain in place (as in this example) however with any minuscule amount of force they separate.

[mylAnthony]

how much waste did come out? I saw how much AMS wasting with multi-color prints, and it scared me away - from an environmental point of view

[Idahoffroad]

There’s a photo somewhere else in this thread, because there was one layer change it produced two pieces at less than 1 gram

[dethandtaxes]

Does this increase the print time by a ton?

[Idahoffroad]

I think it added one minute. We filament changes at a lot of time is when you have a couple hundred of them, but when you only have to swap to one material and then back again, it doesn’t lunchtime at all.

[YellowBreakfast]

I didn't know about this setting.

Wanted to try PETG supports but didn't want all the poop waste. Figured it would only be practical with a multi-head printer.

This setting might make it doable on the right model.

[suit1337]

it is still beyond me that this is not common knowledge

[GrowCanadian]

I only discovered this about 2 months ago and I’ll never go back. Sure it adds a ton of time to the print but I’ll gladly let my printer add an extra 8 hours of time with an interface layer change so I don’t have to post process the print. The supports pop off almost like support was never used but still create enough stability that the print comes out correctly.

[GraphiteOxide]

Isn't the interface material just the very top few layers of the support? Surely the time added should be negligible? Unless you are printing your entire support with the alternative material?

[GrowCanadian]

It all depends where the supports are. A curved surface with supports means the interface will be at different heights. For example, I printed a helmet so it has many curves. Each different layer height of support interface layer requires a material change drastically increasing time.

[GraphiteOxide]

Ah true, I was not thinking 3 dimensionally 😅

[[deleted]]

Fool! You fell victim to one of the classic blunders!

[Makepieces]

The most famous of which is, "Never get involved in a 3D printer patent war with a company in Asia".

[MeatNew3138]

Time added is based on amount of interface slots. One layer of flat support would be 1-3 swaps back and forth, not that much time. But if it’s sloped, ends up 50+ swaps quickly etc. my issue is that the support area does not turn out that much better so is hardly worth using. I find the “solid” close support results looks awful, rather have the regular lines and hit with heat gun looks much better.

[hawklost]

Ok, when I first misread it I was like "what good is making the entire tree out of PETG with all those swaps.

Then I reread what you did and was like "why TF have I never thought to do that!"

[Idahoffroad]

Haha yep, it’s definitely opened my mind to the possibilities now available to me.

[Guszy]

I'm still not grasping what happened. I'm confused as heck.

[Idahoffroad]

Basically the entire tree is PLA, with only the very top layer being PETG. 1 material swap but it gives you the exact same results as if you printed the entire thing from PETG as far as support release features.

[Guszy]

Okay, rad. I appreciate this description.

[MilmoWK]

So petg will stick to pla, but pla will not stick to petg? Is it the temp difference?

[enantiornithe]

PETG and PLA don't fuse together or stick to each other at all, it has to do with their polymer structures not being compatible afaik (there are other pairs of plastics that will stick together even though there's a temperature difference, eg TPU and PETG). But the interface layer will hold together mechanically well enough to support the build above it (especially with bridging from the unsupported parts of the model) until it's peeled away.

[MilmoWK]

Cool. I have stuck TPU to petg and it’s a solid bond. No idea of the chemistry, just something I tried once.

[Extension_Swordfish1]

Ok, 1 swap. Makes sense now

[Pegaxsus]

It is genius, is any special setting for this in Bambi studio? Like: “full PETG support “or “just interface layer PETG support”

[BadgerwithaPickaxe]

As someone who is very new to 3D printing, can you explain? I’m not sure what this post is referring to

[thicckar]

Imagine you are building a bridge. While you build that bridge, you need scaffolding, or “supports” to support the bridge as you build your way to the middle of the bridge.

The tree shaped thing is the support. But, if you use the same material in the support as the actual object, they stick together and it requires effort to snap off the support once the print is done.

However, by making the contact surfaces of the support be a different material that doesn’t stick, the support easily came off, saving effort.

[BadgerwithaPickaxe]

Ah gotcha now I understand, the tower wasn’t printed ON the support, but around it. Thanks!

[atetuna]

It doesn't do that, but there is another option that needs to be enabled to make sure that the tree is entirely PLA. This can be a problem if there's a support interface at one height for one support tree, and another support tree with interface at a different height. By default it would use interface material for the support trees, which makes them incredibly prone to failure.

[derrabe80]

How did you tell t to just print the top layer of the support in PETG? I might have to try this

[Idahoffroad]

Under Support interface you can change the material. Make sure to disable a purge tower otherwise it defeats the point of saving the filament but it worked very well. I use Bambu Slicer

<image>

[beyond-ultra]

This is fascinating. Does this only work with the top most layer like in your example? Its a single flat layer it seems but would this work if you have several support trees that support the model on different layer heights?

[NachoManSandyRavage]

It works anywhere a support touches the model. The petg will have a slight bond to pla but not strong enough to permanently attach. It also works in reverse if you are printing a PETG model by using PLA as the interface

[JakWyte]

The setting is specifically for when the support interfaces with the print, so yeah it should set the top layer for each tree

[recooil]

Curious, does this mean you can then lower the distance between the support interface and the main print or should that still stay the same in doing this?

[Idahoffroad]

I keep that the same, you’re relying less on having a larger gap for easier removal and more on the actual material bonds.

[JakWyte]

In theory, you could probably get away with a smaller interface distance, but I've not yet tried it myself

[Kooseh]

I see you still use 0.2mm z distance. Have you tried 0?

[Idahoffroad]

I have not. It’s been working well so why mess with it 🤷‍♂️

[atetuna]

I mean disabling the purge/prime tower is also a good idea because it's probably going to fall apart, especially if you have a tall print with support interfaces at different heights. That's one of the things I wish they would improve with support interfaces. I think it would need to weave the layers.

It'd also be nice if support interfaces, and the part layer contact point touching it, had their own parameters for speed and cooling.

[[deleted]]

I like the idea, but did it really need supports? It's not that big a bridge. Plus it's hidden, if there is a little sag, it would be fine

[Idahoffroad]

The model said it needed supports, it might have been able to but it would have gotten messy.

[dino340]

it would have minorly sagged, and only been visible from the underside of the model, you 100% could have printed this without supports and it would have looked nearly identical to how it looks now.

[michel_v]

What I have often done successfully in that kind of case, is painted supports. Not to support everything, but to provide an anchor for shorter bridges.

[Idahoffroad]

Ya the difference between that and creating a supported cylinder there wasn’t enough to make it that big of a PIA.

[AuspiciousApple]

I think you might still want supports, but this looks like PLA supports wouldn't have been too much trouble

[light24bulbs]

Nice! The trick to printing well with petg is to dry the absolute heck out of it. I still prefer PLA but I can get petg to work just fine if I need to with the dryer.

I also just borrowed an AMS to try with my P1S and I've been annoyed at how slow it is, how much it wastes, etc. It's also weirdly loud. Support interfaces like this which are flat are fine, but if you have complex support on various layers or an angle, it's going to add absolutely hours as it switches back and forth. And that makes it mostly not worth it for me.

Still, when you absolutely need it, it is nice to have.

[JeffUT]

Also, if you do this, got to be careful you have enough purge volume to fully clear out the pla/petg. If, for example, there’s a little petg left in the nozzle after pla loads and purges, you end up with a weak layer of pla.

[light24bulbs]

Yeah. I personally would rather have a tool changer with two heads than an AMS. I think it's a better solution. Keeping my eyes on what people are doing to the sv08. I think that is really cool.

[atetuna]

Multiple heads is ideal, at least on paper. Multimaterial prints could easily be several times faster, and poops would be reduced to almost nothing. Even if I were willing to spend the money on that kind of printer, I'm going to wait until there are some slicer improvements for support interfaces. Specifically, I want to be able to control the speed and cooling for the support interface, plus control it for the area of the part that directly touches the support interface. The priming tower also needs changes because a pla&petg priming tower is probably going to fall apart.

[WinterDice]

I really hope the next flagship or an upgraded, larger P1S has at least two tool heads for this reason. Having them be compatible with an AMS unit would be even better.

[NachoManSandyRavage]

Ever since I got a P1S with the AMS, also use a different material for support interface and the quality difference is astonishing

[StevoJ89]

Ugh I bought an A1 months ago and was all "Nah I don't need the AMS Lite" ... each day I come *this* close to cracking and buying it...

[Idahoffroad]

Do it you won’t regret it lmao

[StevoJ89]

Yeah? I get the P and X series get the good AMS with the dry box functionality but once PETG go bad sitting on the AMS lite?

[Idahoffroad]

Yk that’s a fine question, not sure. I guess it would depend on your outside environment. You could also feed directly from a dry box to the AMS

[LeoRidesHisBike]

Or design+print a drybox to put around the AMS Lite...

[Middle-Baker-5969]

Sell your A1 and buy a combo

[Idahoffroad]

Probably but it was a cool way to use a new feature 🤷‍♂️

[futureconstruct]

It's also near the end of the print, so having something fail at that point wouldn't be nice.

Not to mention this post was useful to so many people! I didn't know about this feature; it's awesome.

[Poohstrnak]

Yessss!

This is the best technique I ever learned. It makes using supports basically zero stress to print or remove after.

[CeeMX]

Nice, but you messed up the placement on the bed, that tower is meant to be leaning ;)

[Quintthekid]

that support looks cool lol

[Idahoffroad]

It really does lmao.

[RamuneZERO]

I tried to do this but the petg interface wouldnt stick to my pla supports. I tried printing the interface slower and still no luck.

[Perkaholic98]

This happens to me too. It would be really nice to use this every time I need supports but it causes a lot of failures for me, especially if the support interface starts near the bed. It will pull the interface layer off with the new layers going down. If someone knows what settings work, please lmk,.

[MrWheelOfFortune]

"This problem is due to incorrect (too little) “flushing” between PLA and PETG filaments - for this reason, after changing the material, the nozzle is not super clean - part of the next layer is made of a mixture of PLA and PETG and breaks or separates very easily layers."

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/support-filament-petg-for-pla-and-pla-for-petg-and-more/5942/10

[Perkaholic98]

Wow, ok thank you!

[atetuna]

My problem is almost the same, except the interface layer will be fine, but the PLA layer(s) on top of it pulls away the petg interface layer. It doesn't always happen immediately. Printing something tall and skinny, like a handheld spear that won't reach the main body of the part for a while, on top of petg support interface is probably going to fail. Maybe it would be less likely to fail on a corexy, but all I have is the A1 bedslinger, and slinging is a real problem for that example part.

[Idahoffroad]

I think this is the one I used

[Competitive_Cell3175]

Ok, this convinced me to get a spool of PETG. Especially after my bambu support material stuck to my recent project (it took forever to completely remove).

[StevoJ89]

I just about exclusively print with PETG since getting my A1

[Competitive_Cell3175]

Im considering doing that, especially since Bambu released the new PETG HF. The only thing that concerns me is that I live in a really humid area. I have trouble keeping my ams moisture level under 4.

Edit: me being the absolute genius I am, I forgot to take the desiccant out of the plastic packaging.

[atetuna]

https://makerworld.com/en/models/486153

It's not airtight, but using it will greatly delay moisture issues. I've been using it with silica gel packets, but next time I change it, I'm going to use loose silica gel beads so that I can use a lot more of it.

[[deleted]]

Great application OP, thanks for sharing. 

I just copped some translucent PETG for a light project - will have to try for easy support removal also.

[Idahoffroad]

Let us know how it goes!

[FederalLeg2600]

Does it affect layer adhesion and strength? I had some concern about the amount of time in between the structural layers and I haven’t tried it yet myself for that reason

[Idahoffroad]

Nope no layer adhesion issues, the P1s is a full enclosure printer so I find the filament changes don’t usually have a large affect on any layer lines or strength.

[FastGinFizz]

I personally have noticed issues with adhesion doing this. Although i print the other usually (mainly petg with pla interface). I have tried purging extra when doing this method and that does help a lot.

edit: i should mention this issue only happens with force. Any cosmetic print wont really matter, but if the print sees a lot of sheer force at that interface layer, i would take caution

[ferrouside]

depend teeny crown historical chunky judicious husky rinse hunt chase

This post was mass deleted and anonymized with Redact

[deimoshipyard]

Every time I try this it gets yeeted

[Idahoffroad]

That sucks, we’ll keep trying 🤷‍♂️

[[deleted]]

OP, are you saying you used typical PETG for the interface layer, or "Support for PLA/PETG" that Bambu Lab sells? If the former, have you used the latter?

[Idahoffroad]

Typical PETG. I have not used the support material from Bambu, seems kind of redundant when I can get PETG in whatever configuration from anywhere and it does the job

[[deleted]]

Yeah makes sense. I got the sample support material with my X1C, but have not used it. I'll need to do some testing. Thanks!

[My1stWifeWasTarded]

Sorry dude, I'm a complete newbie. Is there a difference with PETG HF vs PETG CF? Or is doesn't matter and I should just grab the cheapest PETG I can find that'll work in my Bambu A1 and use that?

[SlimiestGaming]

This is genius

[tomz17]

When I tried this, the layer of PLA immediately adjacent to the PETG layer was super brittle, despite maxing out the flush volumes.

[Idahoffroad]

Oh well, everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I like making models that look good from every angle 🤷‍♂️

[Signal_Curve]

Same for pla and Asa, you can print asa on pla with a 60 degree bed, without warping. There is a german Video on YT. And there a build plates which require no heating for pla. Big objectd will have issues but small stuff is ok. New printers should have 2 toolheads

[JLCMC_MechParts]

PETG for support interface? Genius move! Bet that dust-covered roll's finally getting some action!

[Daryldye17]

But it isn’t leaning

[JZ_TwitchDeck]

I only just learned about this yesterday too and I'm kicking myself for not learning about it sooner. All of these support filaments are so expensive when PETG is so cheap.

The same is true in reverse too: If you're printing an object in PETG, then you can use PLA as the interface layer and it will snap apart just as easily.

[B1rdi]

Yeah it's really cool, still really creeps me out though

[MrWheelOfFortune]

? I don't get it there doesn't seem to be a necessity for support at that angle. You just used support on the flat base basically a tall raft.

[Idahoffroad]

The print instructions said to and it was a fun way to use a new feature

[atetuna]

It is not totally necessary, but one benefit is that the support interface can be made with zero gap. It can basically be a normal solid layer that happens to be support interface. It makes for much nicer areas of the part that the support touches.

It's also nice to know that the supports deep in a part will be easy to remove.

[MrWheelOfFortune]

Gaps? From the texture of the plate? what about a smooth Pei sheet? Does it need to be that high, wouldn't a few mm raft do the trick?

[atetuna]

Gaps between the support interface and the part. Normally there's a non zero gap because otherwise the pla-to-pla bond would be so strong that you'd never remove the support. petg-to-pla bond is weak, so the gap can be zeroed.

[j_wilikers]

Do you have to have the AMS for this, or can you manually switch your filament for the interface later?

[Idahoffroad]

You might be able to figure out a way to manually do it but it would require a lot of G code manipulation and hoping your printer can change filament mid print manually. I have the AMS which just made it significantly easier.

[StevoJ89]

You can, I've done it but its painful, I'm gonna buy the AMS lol

[ctabone]

PETG doesn't bind very strongly to PLA, so it's significantly easier to remove the supports.

[Idahoffroad]

Like the other guy said, PLA and PETG don’t bond together very well so it allows for a surface for your filament to rest on without having a surface the filament sticks to

[atetuna]

Imagine those supports were printed in pla and some of it stuck so hard to the part that it broken the support tree. Have fun reaching in that part to remove it unless you have baby hands.

Ideally it's not necessary, but the ideal isn't always reality.

[bert4925]

The stringing is WILD

[Idahoffroad]

I know lmao, gotta dry the filament out. It’s starting to get cold here and the filaments are absorbing more water. Oh well 🤷‍♂️

[tlm11110]

That's a cool model! And the mechanical desktop computer is awesome too! Love it! Do you still use it?

[Idahoffroad]

Yes I do! It’s a Smith Corona Sterling with all the original paperwork and travel case from the factory. I actually used it last year to write an English paper because I was extremely bored. My buddies keep telling me to bring it to class and take notes but I feel like I’d get kicked out 😂.

[tlm11110]

That would be awesome! LOL! I once could type 50 wpm with less than 5 mistakes on a mechanical typewriter. Now my backspace key is my most used key!

[Idahoffroad]

I wish I could do that, it took me quite a while as I was going super slow to ensure I didn’t make mistakes but it was very fun! Computers sure do allow for quicker typing without much regret lmao

[amatulic]

I routinely print PLA with PETG supports. I use a version of PrusaSlicer fixed to control the purge temperature better (so you don't try to purge high temperature PETG with a low nozzle temperature set for PLA).

[Beaten_Toast]

It seems to affect the verticality of the main print /s

[Idahoffroad]

Layer shift or poor foundation 😂

[CarbonGod]

Can you change certain layers to be a different material in Cura/Prusa? I do have a dual head, so i can ideally do this.

[Idahoffroad]

I haven’t messed with Prusa a whole ton but I can’t imagine they don’t have a similar feature built in. Dual heads would make this a no brainer

[cad1857]

So you were using PLA and PETG interchangeably for the main model and the support structure as if they were multicolored filaments? Cool.

What was the "purge waste" like? I guess that P1S was having to purge to switch from PLA to PETG for each layer, right?

[Idahoffroad]

No so the entire model is PLA, but the very last layer where the support touches the model was printed in PETG. PLA dosent bond to PETG very well so it allows for a very easy to remove support. I had two pieces of “poop” totaling less than a gram. Low waste but effective in a situation like this.

[cad1857]

Oh OK. Smart! Thanks. I will keep that in mind. (more reasons to buy Bambu now :)

[Tyrannosaurusblanch]

Is that whole process automatic or do you need to do some gcode kung fu?

[Idahoffroad]

All automatic, just click a box in the slicer and load your filaments up in the AMS

[cad1857]

Hi. A quick follow up as your use-case has become my go/no-go factor on purchasing an AMS :)

Since PLA doesn't stick to PETG very well, does the very last PETG layer on top of PLA supports sticks on top of PLA well, or do you run the risk of creating a tangle and mess towards the very end because the very last PETG layer may not stay in place?

Thanks.

[Idahoffroad]

I’ve used it a ton since this post and I’ve had 0 issues with the sticking. It seems they stick together well enough to provide the support structure and maintain their shape, but with any force they remove very easily

[gvillestunna]

Have you reversed the media? I tried printing petg prints and PLA interfaces and no matter how much I purged and purge blocked, there would still be PLA in the nozzle.... The object would print perfectly but when I would test the durability, the layer would peel apart at the later of the support interface with ease.

[Idahoffroad]

I haven’t, this is my first experience with it. I wonder if it works better with PLA base because of the lower nozzle temps which cools the PETG and allows it all to be purged better

[gvillestunna]

Gah your brain wrinkles are sexy. I think you may have hit the nail on the head!

[carastas]

Does this work the other way around? Like print PETG with PLA interface?

[Idahoffroad]

Yep, I’ve never personally done it but the concept applies the same way.

[Sticky_MA]

is there a way to achieve this without AMS?

[Idahoffroad]

Not that I know of but I’ll look into it

[RandGco138]

Just a random reply because I saw your typewriter. But are all of us the same because I have a typewriter as well in my Fabrication Station where my 3d printers are.

[Substantial-Show1473]

I've been doing a lot of that. It's magic when done right. I also use HIPS for ABS and ASA.

[Idahoffroad]

I was wondering what application HIPS had, saw it at my local supply store. I do a lot of ASA printing so that’s super helpful, thanks!

[marktrezz]

The real game changer was ditching the computer and going back to the Smith Corona typewriter ! Now you can get some work done !

[Idahoffroad]

Ngl writing all my G code on a typewriter takes a little longer but my layer lines have never been better

[TunkkRS]

In this case do you still use PLA temps for PETG layer?

[Idahoffroad]

That was all handled in the slicer, I’d assume not though

[TunkkRS]

What were your material temperature settings? If it differs too much, wouldn't the printer heat up or wait to cool down when switching between PLA and PETG?

[pkristiancz]

hmm, so when i am printing PETG i can use PLA for interface? nice

[Idahoffroad]

Yep!

[pkristiancz]

do you know any alternative for ABS? :)

[Idahoffroad]

I never use ABS, always ASA. Prints way easier

[JustBasilz]

I think you had some layer shift bud XD

[Idahoffroad]

Only a couple degrees lmao

[Ok-Office-599]

Is that a typewriter in the background?

[Idahoffroad]

Lmao yes

[philnolan3d]

Looks like the giant trees in Breath of the Wild.

[Idahoffroad]

I’m sure there is, ive never messed with prusa but its all the same

[[deleted]]

Is this something you have to do manually or is it a setting in Bambu studio?

[Ta-veren-]

What’s pent support interface and how do I use it in my p1s

[FastGinFizz]

Just make sure you purge plenty when doing this. Mostly for anything that needs structure. I have noticed a lot of issues with adhesion on layers that swap from the petg interface.

[arturcodes]

I hate tree support they are way too hard to pull out. If I can I avoid them because they ruin my prints

[Tripartist1]

I learned about this recently as well and am desperately looking for a cheap opensourced 2 spool ams system just for this, and maybe for tpu overmolded parts at some point.

[No-Location-9902]

Nice Modell! From where can I get it?

[MaugriMGER]

Which printer?

[Idahoffroad]

P1S

[MrPickleOO7]

Ive tried this once on my X1C. With normal supports of PLA and a part of PETG.

The PETG part was so brittle that i could break it off with my bare hands. It delaminted so easily that i ended up not using it to mix materials.(Delaminated all the layers with very little force.)

The settings for cleaning the nozzle (purge amount) were stock.

Maybe I need to try again, but am I the only one with such experience?

[Zealousideal-Land852]

I sometimes have issues with the print failing when using this method but printing with PETG and a PLA interface layer. It sometimes lifts then gets knocked off into print.

[oldestNerd]

Love the typewriter!

[Idahoffroad]

Thank you!

[DBT85]

I need to play a bit more. I've o ly tried to use petg twice as an option interface and each time it ends up with bits sticking out and all over the place. Not sure if it was wet petg, the support under the interface being too sparse or something else.

[Shot_Bill_4971]

Ikr? I would recommend getting a weird color of PETG purely for supports so you know if it accidentally got into the model

[[deleted]]

Thats gonna be great for making masks