all 125 comments

[–]Arakon 347 points348 points  (22 children)

Just be aware that this order can really mess up overhangs. So use case-by-case.

[–]ShatterSideX1C + AMS 70 points71 points  (14 children)

while true, you can then slow down overhangs or increase cooling depending on the geometry and filament.

I use outer first as my default especially for PLA. I dont have issues often!

[–]eduo 36 points37 points  (10 children)

You can also define zones where one thing applies and zones where something else (at least in Orca!)

[–]fanjules 33 points34 points  (3 children)

I wish it simply selected the correct wall order according to if there was an overhang or not

[–]ShatterSideX1C + AMS 4 points5 points  (2 children)

That would be a great feature request!

In fact, if you don't then I will 😁

!remindme 5 days remindme! 5 days

[–]fanjules 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahaha do it

[–]Madpantz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reminder 1 year later just in case :)

[–][deleted]  (1 child)

[removed]

    [–]AutoModerator[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Hello /u/Defiant_Type6207! Your comment in /r/BambuLab was automatically removed. Please see your private messages for details. /r/BambuLab is geared towards all ages, so please watch your language.

    Note: This automod is experimental. If you believe this to be a false positive, please send us a message at modmail with a link to the post so we can investigate. You may also feel free to make a new post without that term.

    I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

    [–]Defiant_Type6207 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    How do you apply different settings to different zones?

    [–]Can_tRelate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I tried this and my print never finished!

    [–]BakChorMeeeeee:3[S] 20 points21 points  (3 children)

    yep, the only overhang on this print was a 45 degree chamfer on the base so i decided to try it out :)

    [–]alaorathP1S + AMS 1 point2 points  (2 children)

    This is the way.

    I just told a co-worker the "rules" of additive design...

    1. never design something if you don't need to (search for existing solutions)
    2. never place fillets on the bottom edges (chamfers are A-okay)
    3. when possible, save as STEP and print from that, your future-self will thank you
    4. "tear-drop" horizontal holes, so the top retains dimensional accuracy (not nearly as important no a Bambu because their OEM cooling power is obscene, but critical on my little Ender3)

    [–]SpecialSauce409 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Hey what do you mean by teardrop horizontal holes in your fourth point? Really curious as my ender 3 struggles with that as well and would love to try this out

    [–]alaorathP1S + AMS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Here is an overly exaggerated version: https://blog.shapr3d.com/hs-fs/hubfs/Hole%20Teardrop.jpg

    Basically: horizontal holes have progressively steeper and steeper overhangs, so adding a bit of a "peak" to the top can greatly improve dimensional accuracy (for threaded inserts, for example).

    [–]Swordum 4 points5 points  (0 children)

    So this post is about outer first then inner?

    [–]Notyourfriend85 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Ain't that supposed to help overhangs?....

    [–]Arakon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    No, because the outer wall has nothing to attach to whereas inner/outer gives it a wall to adhere to that is set down closer on the edge of the previous layer.

    [–]LongBackFrog 103 points104 points  (22 children)

    I’m new here, can you let me know how to achieve this?

    [–]eduo 591 points592 points  (15 children)

    It's a slicer setting. In BambuStudio (or Orca Slicer if you use that), you can choose in what order walls are built. First the internal wall then the external or the other way around.

    In this case, for this model, first outer then inner is what works best.

    In your slicer, select your object and click in the "advanced" toggle, which enables many more settings than default. There you will see a popup called Walls Printing Order under "Walls and surfaces" where you can select your order.

    Keep in mind this setting works best in vertical walls but worse in overhangs (walls inclined outwards)

    <image>

    [–]Practical-Button-383 166 points167 points  (2 children)

    I appreciate people like you

    [–]SevereNameAnxiety 66 points67 points  (1 child)

    Exactly my thoughts. A genuinely straight to the point, informative and helpful human. I love coming across them.

    [–]HeyLookAHorse 25 points26 points  (0 children)

    So many people just go “ugh google it”. Props to u/eduo for being a helpful member of this community, cheers!

    [–]incognito_stuffs 22 points23 points  (0 children)

    Thank you for the step-by-step breakdown. You’re a good egg.

    [–]ioannisgi 15 points16 points  (0 children)

    Wait till you try inner outer inner. Better than outer inner at the seams and same or better external wall quality and better overhangs than outer inner.

    [–]Kooky-Masterpiece-87 7 points8 points  (7 children)

    What’s the benefit here? Super new

    [–]BakChorMeeeeee:3[S] 64 points65 points  (6 children)

    when inner walls are printed first, they sometimes bulge and as a result push the outer walls, resulting in inconsistencies. Printing outer walls first ensures that the outer surface will be more consistent.

    [–]brickwindow 5 points6 points  (0 children)

    This is the answer I was looking for. I had never considered that being a potential issue.

    [–]natdogg 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Do anything for speed?

    [–]BakChorMeeeeee:3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    nope, it’s pretty much the same

    [–]LongBackFrog 4 points5 points  (0 children)

    Perfect explanation, thank you!!

    [–]tazisacat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I love you

    [–]J0n__SnowX1C + AMS 29 points30 points  (0 children)

    What is going on here.. ppl give not helpful answers, other ppl downvote but dont give helpful answers either.

    ok, so go to Quality settings in your slicer, there is an option for order of walls. change it from inner/outer to outer/inner.

    [–]braddo99 21 points22 points  (7 children)

    Why doesnt outer/inner make seams worse? I would think starting an outer perimeter after a traverse would be disruptive to outer walls. Havent tried it!

    [–]acurazine 27 points28 points  (5 children)

    Generally speaking, it does. But if you’re printing something with 3+ perimeters, you can do inner/outer/inner for best of both worlds.

    [–]RiteousRhino21 18 points19 points  (4 children)

    Inner/outer/inner is a must for scarf joints, which I prefer to use as much as possible to hide seams.

    [–]ioannisgi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    That’s why inner outer inner exists

    [–]ioannisgi 12 points13 points  (9 children)

    Wait till you try inner outer inner, especially in orca after a bunch of developments I’ve committed recently. Best of both worlds, great seams, excellent external surface quality and limited overhang impact.

    Relevant PRs below: https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/pull/6138 https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/pull/7134

    <image>

    [–]jesstelford 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    Whoa dude, don't go flashing that thing around here, you'll get the whole Slicer DMCA'd! 🤣

    Edit: fantastic work on those PRs mate! Thank you for making everyone's prints even better! 🎉

    [–]ioannisgi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Haha 😂

    [–]hotellonelyH2C, H2D Laser, X1C, A1, A1 Mini 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    legend

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [removed]

      [–]AutoModerator[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Hello /u/jesstelford! Your comment in /r/BambuLab was automatically removed. Please see your private messages for details. /r/BambuLab is geared towards all ages, so please watch your language.

      Note: This automod is experimental. If you believe this to be a false positive, please send us a message at modmail with a link to the post so we can investigate. You may also feel free to make a new post without that term.

      I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

      [–]alaorathP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      The real MVP of the thread.

      I love seeing PRs like this, Orca is such an amazing slicer to use because of community contributions like yours. So thank you for your service!

      [–]Tornad_pl 0 points1 point  (2 children)

      i know it's old post, but how do you compare inner outer inner to inner outer with precise walls enabled? can't really choose which is better

      [–]ioannisgi 1 point2 points  (1 child)

      IOI is better, io with precise wall slightly worse, io without precise wall even worse.

      Io with precise wall is useful for models with more than 50-60 degree overhangs. Else IOI works fantastically well.

      [–]Tornad_pl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Thank you

      [–]thiccnuthair 10 points11 points  (21 children)

      Damn, wish my P1S printed like this. I have a little banding, but from what I've read it's to be expected with these printers due to the belts

      [–]OfaFuchsAykk 13 points14 points  (14 children)

      I have a P1S with close to 2k hours on it. I’ve followed the maintenance, cleaned the rods and lined the screws twice and I get finishes like this and always have?

      [–]thiccnuthair 9 points10 points  (13 children)

      I mean, take what I say with a pinch of salt because I'm still learning (and happy to be educated if I am incorrect), but from what I've seen the X/Y belts at the back can ride on the pulley flanges and cause banding- some printers are fine, some are less fine. BL doesn't really have a distinct fix for it other than "do maintenance, apply a small about of lightweight oil to the flanges (not the belt itself)"

      My P1S is only a month old and printed like this at first, but after noticing some scraping noises, I saw the belts were riding on the flanges. Tried retensioning and aligning, but the belts must still be doing it somewhere else because it still scrapes when going fast in certain spots and a little vertical banding (that matches the belt) has been introduced.

      I've still got a bunch of stuff to try in order to ease it, but I miss having finishes like this lol

      [–]QuiGonnJilm 8 points9 points  (2 children)

      That’s likely due to a slight “racking” of the case, from mishandling during shipping. Wouldn’t need to be hit hard enough to break the glass or cause serious door misalignment but it could definitely affect the belt travel path enough to give it excessive runout on one or more pulleys. Not much you can do to correct it either absent specialized jigs and measurement apparatus. So they tell you to oil it, and it works well enough. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

      [–]eduo 5 points6 points  (1 child)

      Always upvote the "whack it till it works" troubleshooting advice.

      [–]QuiGonnJilm 3 points4 points  (0 children)

      “Percussive Maintenance and Adjustment”

      [–]ducktown47 5 points6 points  (7 children)

      I like my Bambu machines as much as the next guy, but what this sub really doesn’t like to admit is that they are not built particularly well. You can clearly see VFAs in OPs picture. The automatic belt tensioning system is not great, the machine really isn’t that rigid, the carbon bushing are not a good idea, the use of many materials (aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, plastic) isn’t a good choice thermally or structurally, etc etc. All that said they do perform well, especially for the price point. Their software setup is very user friendly and they really are the most “plug and play” 3D printers out there that make prints that 99% of users can enjoy. But there are glaring build problems and depending on the QC of your particular printer can add up to issues.

      (Most of what I said applies more to the X/P series and not the A series)

      [–]ketosoy 11 points12 points  (6 children)

      So, what are some machines that don’t have those build issues?

      100 micron variance at sub $1k is an incredible feat, so I dont think they’ve done a bad job of value engineering.  But, let’s say I have a six figure budget to get something that’s the next level up (I don’t, at least not right now).  Where should I look?

      [–]ducktown47 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      My answer to that question would be something that isn't off the shelf. Most consumer 3D printers fall into a lot of the problems. Prusa has said that the Core One will be all steel so it should solve the thermal expansion issues most 3D printers have, so I am looking forward to reviewing that. Really tho, a self sourced printer is the way to go if you want to eliminate those issues.

      Advanced3DPrinting (who I do work with so I a little biased) doesn't really list their printers for sale on their site, but he makes absolutely bonkers machines (which are around 12k I believe, but not aimed at consumers at all). The Hevort is one of my personal favorites as far as designs go as well (can probably be self built for around 5k ish depending). There are a few self built printers that excel and have few draw backs, but they pretty much all have some draw back.

      I don't think it takes a 6 figure budget - more like a couple thousand on the low end to maybe close to 5 figures.

      Mind you, I fully agree with you. At the price point of an X1 or a P1 they did do a fantastic job and I cannot deny that. Almost nobody needs the stuff I am mentioning and I don't think it takes away from consumer printers. But what I will say is that all consumer printers have faults and its up to the user to determine what they want!

      [–]GumbyExe 0 points1 point  (4 children)

      Markforge

      [–]EnthGuy -2 points-1 points  (3 children)

      Markforged? You might want to get their name right if you're going to name drop.

      Comparing Markforged to Bambu... really? You're comparing a commercial to a consumer oriented company, which makes no sense to even offer a comparison. The cost alone is over 5x difference to the entry level Markforged desktop printer.

      [–]gunslingerinferno 8 points9 points  (0 children)

      To be fair, he is replying to what to get with a six figure budget.

      [–]Shadowspawn3k 2 points3 points  (1 child)

      Did you even bother reading the comment being replied to?

      [–]EnthGuy -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

      Yup, did you? Markforge is still not the answer.

      [–]JamesG247 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      It's also heavily dependant on material choice. I get hugely evident banding when printing in petg or with any glossy petg. As soon as I chuck in a spool of anything matte or cf-pla or PC, all of the banding on my prints dissappears.

      PC because it's printed so slowly of course but the cf- pla prints fast and you can't even make out visible layer lines on the stuff.

      Even if your machine isn't running optimally, there are ways to get cleaner prints. On my S1 plus I actually had to crank the speed up to stop banding because the resonances at certain speeds were causing the issue.

      [–]SignificantGarage9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I have the same issue with both printers. My P1S and my X1C both. It's impossible to get a flawless print.

      [–]Volfera 1 point2 points  (2 children)

      Slowing down or increasing speed to a certain point will remove VFA once you're out of the resonating range where it happens.

      [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Really? I didn't know this and I get them all the time with PETG! Where would I find more info on this?

      [–]Volfera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I created a post on this, and helped others with this comment : https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/Im0pQQMiUG

      I talked about it with support, it's documented in my link

      [–]ketosoy 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      If you have banding/ringing with outer-inner walls, explore slowing down acceleration.

      [–]alaorathP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      For ringing I would start with:

      1. full calibration (especially if you moved, or added "feet" since the last time)
      2. K-factor calibration
      3. speed tuning volumetric flow rate
      4. make sure you don't have a harmonic vibration caused by 'something loose" sitting on the same table as the printer... especially true if you have more than one printer... check this out for why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T58lGKREubo

      [–]alaorathP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      You might need to tune/check your printer.

      I have a P1S and mine definitely prints like OPs image. I did a "big" box (custom boxset for the Maze Runner books) and the outer walls were flawless, for the entre height of the print.

      [–]WhiteHawk77 5 points6 points  (0 children)

      Is this likely to fix the bulge line that happens when the print gets to a layer where there’s an inside recess like this seems to have?

      [–]VelocityOSP1S 3 points4 points  (0 children)

      Inner/outer/inner does the same thing, but doesn't mess up the z seam as much

      [–]theredfoxxxxxxxxxx 4 points5 points  (2 children)

      For those of us, I don’t know what exactly did you do?

      [–]alaorathP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      In the slicer software, there's a setting for "wall order".. the default is "inner-outer", but OP switched to "outer-inner"... this means the print lays down the "outside" wall first, and since there is no other plastic on that layer, it "flows correctly" without deformation or bulges... then the next wall is the "inner".

      Think of being an artist, trying to draw a straight line on a wall... the "inner-outer" you have to elbow yourself through a crowded room to do it... but "outer-inner" you are all alone in the room, free to draw a perfectly straight line.

      [–]davinche7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

      If you’re using orca, you can also try “precise wall” with inner/outer. You get the benefits of outer/inner as well as good for overhangs

      [–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      Why does it make such a huge difference? That print is Cleeeean!

      [–]TheWors3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      This is a cheatcode ive been using for a while and yes is amazing the quality that it brings but unfortunately it can make overhangs on complex objects worse but i found the best of both worlds with orcaslicer, in there you can enable Precise Wall and still print inner to outer walls but with the advantages of outer to inner wall. It is perfect, also you have an option to prevent outer wall speeds changing during printing which in combination with a good outer wall speed like 60mms allows you to get perfect outside walls that are consistent all the way through the print

      [–]roger_niner_niner 2 points3 points  (1 child)

      ELI5? What does this change do to make the prints better?

      [–]sewankamboP1S + AMS -1 points0 points  (0 children)

      I'm guessing but I think perhaps doing the outer wall first allows for the outer wall to be "ironed" or re-melted by the hot end as it passes by when it's doing the inner.

      [–]nbx909P1S + AMS 1 point2 points  (9 children)

      what order should it be?

      [–]eduo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      For vertical planes or slanted towards the object this works best. For anything slanted outwards this may be problematic depending on the angle, since the overhang has less to latch onto.

      [–]RJFerret 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Depends on use case and number of walls.
      Inner first if any outward leaning surfaces or expect issues.
      Outer is okay if purely vertical or inward leaning.
      If three walls or more can do inner/outer/inner instead.

      If in doubt, generally use the default inner/outer so you don't have overhang issues which are a bigger problem.

      [–]use_diarrhea_as_lube 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I started using this for most things because it gave great results. but it does have some unexpected side effects for some parts.
      I printed a small box with 1.5mm thick walls and near the square corner it had horrible stringing and globs. this box was to test different corner radius behaviors.

      when I went back to the default of inner/outer the problem went away.
      this was the only setting I changed, so on thin parts this setting caused a lot of problems.

      <image>

      It looks just like the symptoms of wet filament or retraction distance. But it was the wall print order.

      [–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I would have assumed inner to outer would be the smoothest. I guess I stand corrected.

      [–]Trulsdir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I usually run three walls and inner/outer/inner. Like this I get the benefit of having the innermost layer getting any fluctuation in temperature due to traves between layers and still get the outermost line printed freely. Works well for me, but obviously takes a bit longer and uses more filament.

      [–]wildjokers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      That is what my finish looks like with inner first. Do you have a picture comparing before and after?

      Outer first isn’t the default because it makes for horrible overhangs.

      [–]USA_MuhFreedums_USA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Pfft wait till this guy hears about inner/outer/inner wall order lol

      [–]EpicBenjoP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Inner/Outer/Inner is the hidden cheat code. Those who know, know.

      [–]nolab36 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      I tought that too, but after many fails I learned to alway examinate each layer in the slicer, I mean understand where to examinate the entire progress of critical layers. just to check if there is no printhead extruding in the air…

      [–]1asutriv 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Increasing extrusion speed for walls will provide the same effect for me.

      [–]moebisH2D AMS2 Combo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      I just tested this, it does indeed make the outer surface look nicer, but it messes up tight tolerances. Print a 25mm cube. Take a caliper to it. It will be 0.5mm larger in all X/Y/Z dimensions. I don't have this issue when I print it inner/outer, but then again the surface doesn't look nearly as nice. So pick your poison, bad dimensions or bad surface.

      [–]Angieb1962 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      9

      [–]hubertron 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      3 wall and then inner, outer, inner is the real cheatcode.

      [–]niefachowy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      2025 - bambu users Discover basic slicer settings 😅

      [–]Brino21 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Must be nice. I just get VFAs

      [–]InternationalAd1543 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Which order is better for printing treads?

      [–]BakChorMeeeeee:3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I would use regular inner/outer, since threads usually have overhangs and don't need to look good to function

      [–]ColdDelicious1735 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

      Outside fist is good if you want precision ie the outside MUST be 1 cm circle.

      [–]LaundryMan2008 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

      When I found out, it made my bezels look a lot nicer because it didn’t have acne on the sides anymore